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Upper West View / Sunset Wall
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InoYormos 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: James Elric on Jul 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: InoYormos: PURPLE LINE SHOWS THE ROUTE

Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the right-most crack at Sunset Wall.

A 2-3 move hard sequence that will challenge your core strength as you strive to create a foot hold that can push you to the jugs above the crack.

After the crack you have a no hands rest on a ledge. Head for anchor point #2 via the steep southwest face. It looks bare but get up close to find a side pull. Commit to leaning hard left to make the most of it and make a couple big moves to the jugs up top.

Rating is tough to call. It flows like two consecutive boulder problems. Crux for most people will be the first portion on the dark crack but the upper portion is pretty burly.

Protection 

top rope anchor, not safe for crash pad


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By James Elric
From: rockville
Jul 20, 2015

Personally I think this is a solid 12a or even a B. I find it way harder than the 12As i've done at the new and rumney. very anxious to see what other climbers think.

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