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Unsorted Routes:

Inner Turmoil 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Presley and Dana Prosser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Kevin P on Jul 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Inner Turmoil.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the cool looking corner system to a huge roof.

Climb the crack with some bird droppings and bones. Traverse the roof and fire up to a ledge. The crux for me on the first pitch was pulling around from the traverse to the ledge. I belayed on the ledge since I used my #5 on the first pitch and I didn't want any rope drag issues caused by the huge traverse. For Pitch two, nice hand/fist stacks and thrashing in general will get you to the anchors at the top of the crack. There is lots of poo in the roof traverse, but it can be avoided.

The second pitch is harder than it looks from the ground.

To keep with the Vedauwoo sandbag standards, I should probably rate this 5.9, but realistically it seemed to be in the mid-10 range.

Descent: rap from the two bolt anchor.

Location 

It is located right of High Tea For Hookers. Looking South from Plumb Line, you can't miss it and will want to climb it.

Protection 

We did this in two pitches. The first pitch took a few hand-size pieces, 3 #4s and a #5. Save a #4 for the final pull out of the traverse. I used 2 #0.75s and #0.5 for the anchor. The offwidth second pitch can be done with a #5 and a #6 or maybe 2 #5s. Lower to the ground, and belay your second from the two bolt anchor.


Photos of Inner Turmoil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse.
The traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Digging deep.
Digging deep.
Rock Climbing Photo: Inner Turmoil.
BETA PHOTO: Inner Turmoil.

Comments on Inner Turmoil Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Encinas
Jul 31, 2013

Congrats to you both!!!!!!
By bart cubrich 1
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a really good route! Thanks for bolting it! Has anyone tried to do the traverse of to the right or left?

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