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Inner Space Dental Commander S 
Wave Twister S 

Inner Space Dental Commander 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pon and Pain, 2003
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Aug 7, 2015

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In this pic, ISDC is barely right of center and we...

Description 

The first pitch climbs difficult slab past five bolts. With our fingertips, we brushed lichen off of crucial edges. The slab supports an undisturbed climax, old-growth lichen forest. If someone were to visit with a brush, I would plead for selective thinning, only where necessary, rather than clear cutting.

The second pitch leads past a #1 Camalot placement and a #2, before a short traverse left, past a bent, partly driven "Army" angle piton. Three bolts lead up a short headwall. Behind lies the rim and a bolted anchor (5.6 or 5.9-, depending on how directly you climb past the bolts; 50 feet).

Location 

This is the righthand of the two bolted routes next to the water. A third bolted route may lie uphill to the right.

Protection 

I recommend stick-clipping the first bolt. A #2 and maybe a #3 Camalot must be placed in a horizontal crack between the second and third bolts. After the fifth bolt is a runout on less-difficult slab, reaching the chains at about 70 feet. Pitch two is protected by a #1 and a #2, plus a fixed pin and three bolts.


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