|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Chuck Pratt, Tim Auger, & Jerry Anderson - April, 1973|
|Submitted By:||Osprey Overhang on Dec 13, 2009|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Inner Reaches||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By vincent L.
From: Redwood City
Nov 5, 2011
|A really interesting two pitch route . Pitch one is a wide, slightly awkward crack to a tunnel move with little pro . Pretty easy chimneying though . Second pitch is a 12 inch squeeze crack that is virtually unprotectable , but once inside you cannot really fall out , mentally more challenging that physical , although it is that too . Well worth your time , old school rock climbing .|
By Mark P Thomas
Jan 10, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The first pitch ascends the left side of a fractured tower. Does anyone know what the right side goes at? You can merge with the 5.7 route at the 'cave' section, and it looks pretty interesting.
A #6 BD Cam can be helpful for protecting the earlier squeeze on P1 until you can reach inside deep enough to place a small cam in a seam. Bring 1-2 #5s for P1 pro. You can break this up into 2 pitches and set up a belay inside the cave (I accidentally did this as I wasn't sure when the pitch ended).
On P2 get ready to commit once you enter the squeeze! It seems like you could fall out in the first body-length if you get careless, but really the crux is moving anywhere. Once you get deeper in the squeeze you just chimney up without pro until you tunnel behind a chockstone.
The ending of both pitches were a tad grimy, but otherwise this was a really clean climb. On P2 I traversed left after the wide section as the direct crack was covered in lichen.