REI Community
Cereal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Jemima T 
Bee Tree T 
Born Again S 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Call of the Wild  T 
Capt Crunch T 
Doug Reed Solo TR 
Faith Based Initiative T 
Frankenberry T 
Frosted Flake T 
Fruit Loops T 
Good Samaritans T 
Granola T 
Green Eggs and Ham S 
Hungry Jack T 
Inner Peace T,S 
Jack Be Nimble S 
Mennonite Surf Party S 
Mid-Life Crisis T 
Name Unknown S 
Name Unknown (5.4) T 
Name Unknown (5.8 R/X) TR 
Obamanation T 
Petrified Frog T 
Sea Wolf T 
Shredded Wheat T 
Unknown 5.8 (splitter hand crack) T 
Whisky For Breakfast T 
Wylen T 

Inner Peace 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Eddie Begoon, Mike Artz
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 1,694
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Jan 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


This overlooked route is worth the effort for the NC climber, though it can be exciting without some specific gear beta. Best to use double ropes at the start and then release one when the 1st bolt is reached.

Climb up the chimney placing the #3 camalot. Move up to a stance and locate a great medium stopper. Step back down and move across the chimney onto the face. Dance over to the 1st bolt. Clip 2nd rope and release 1st rope. Move straight up to the 2nd bolt. Climb up (blue tcu here) and then around left onto the delicate face and stance. Get Ready.

Fire in the key sideways #5 WC rock. Make sure it's good! Move up on delicate crimps and layaways to a right foot stance. Look up and fire in that pink tricam (tape the sling for stiffness, its a high placement). Climb up and right (crux) to easier ground and a stance. Medium BD cams here. Climb up and left to the fixed stainless anchor courtesy of Tim Fisher. Inner Peace is now yours!

For extra credit you can give the direct start a go!
FA- Bruce Burgess, Thomas Kelly, Ralph Fickle

Start up the hill from the regular start beneath a left rising ramp/flake. Climb up and left to a bolt with a new modern SS painted hanger. Bust up and left to a crucial small tcu, c3 or hybrid placement. Step slightly left and then bust the move up the ledge. 5.11c


As you turn the corner past the cereal buttress, on the way to the cereal wall, look up and left. You will see a chimney and a clean looking face. Start in the chimney.


2 bolts, pink tricam, #5 wild country rock, medium BD stoppers, #3 camalot, blue tcu, medium cams for the top. Fixed stainless anchor at the top.

Extra Credit: The new "Evo tricam" works wonderfully for the upper crux, so well in fact it could be considered cheating!

Comments on Inner Peace Add Comment
Show which comments
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Jan 4, 2009

FA: Eddie Begoon, Mike Artz. Per my 2nd edition
By BruceBurgessNC Burgess
Dec 21, 2010

This is a classic in my book. A must do for anyone interested in harder gear routes.
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Great description by Tim. This is a route that should see more traffic than it does, but be sure you have solid 5.11 gear skills. Not a route you should attempt if the plan is to dog your way up, or if you don't have solid nut skills. Bolts have been upgraded in recent years (thanks Tim and Tim), so it shouldn't be passed up by solid 5.11 gear climbers as Bruce states. Note: much of the route goes in the shade pretty early, so do it in the morning on cold days.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About