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Inner Light 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,140
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Sep 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (106)
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Lisa using the crack to ascend.


This face is great. Lots of nice sized crimper holds, some just far enough away to make it challanging. Do this face three or four different ways and all are interesting lines. A tree branch near the top can get in your way on the descent.


Ruckman has this at 5.7R but I see very little opportunity for protection on the first half of this climb, and the crease up the top half is a bit flared. It is easily top-roped off two new bolts in a big boulder on the southeast corner of the buttress. There are some older chains one tier down from the top that could be used as well. Either setup will give you quite a bit of rope drag so I'd recommend some long (30') slings and possibly some big cams or hexes as a directional to your toprope setup. Scramble around the west side of the first Watchtower wall to get up there...not too difficult.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Inner Light
Inner Light
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Rock Climbing Photo: Inner Light 5.7 on the Watchtower in Ferguson Cany...
BETA PHOTO: Inner Light 5.7 on the Watchtower in Ferguson Cany...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2016
By Nathan Fisher
Apr 22, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I would agree with the protection or lack of on this route. Tough lead, I ended up top-roping it.
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 14, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a good lead. There isn't very much protection, but it's there. I recommend small aliens, maybe Blue through Yellow, plus some slightly larger cams or TCUs too. I think I even got a #1 or #2 Camalot in somewhere up higher. A great belayer is also recommended.
By Anonymous Coward
May 23, 2005

Black Alien, or creative nutting take the teeth right'outta this beauty. Protectable, but yes, you have to climb the first 10/15 feet to that gear. A great lead ! Lets hope it doesn't sprout a bolt! Giove it a shot, and you will find it to be a very rewarding lead (just have a spotter!!)
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 5, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Finally, got this redpoint thanks to Bobby Hanson bringing the small stuff. 2-3 micro cams, and then you are on easy street. A good spotter wouldn't be a bad idea either. A very balancey and heady lead.
By Ben Folsom
Sep 9, 2007

There is tons of pro on this climb. If you want to and are a tiny bit creative, you can get either bomber small cams or great nuts in about every 3 feet from the bottom to the top. So yeah, if this ever sprouted a bolt, it would be a real shame!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Agreed, great gear, although the first piece feels a bit high if you're warming up on this. You can make the route a tad bit harder by keeping the left arete and the crack on the right off. I know, contrived eliminate, but it adds some cool mantely moves on the upper section.
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Jun 26, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Pretty fun!
By Ryan Goslin
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

finally redpointed this...adequate gear that is solid but tricky. I used a red c3 and a blue metolious for micro cams on the start, then a standard rack for the rest.
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I agree. The pro is all there if you look for it. Small, small cams though for bottom face. A yellow or red C3. Fun route though!
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good free solo route. The holds are definitely there.
From: Texas
Jul 20, 2013

I really enjoyed this. The angle of the first 15-20 is just less than vertical, so you can use really small holds that would normally make a climb pretty hard. The route demands a lot of balance and some good foot work.
Probably the most technical easy climb I've done.
By wasatch boy
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 28, 2014

I would add that this one is a bit tougher for the shorter folk. I'm 6'0" and found that the reaches between good holds were not too bad. My wife at 5'4" found them more exhilarating. The pro I used is below:

#2 BD C3
#2 BD Camalot
#0.5 BD Camalot
By Josh Triplett
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 22, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Only thing I got on the face for pro was a blue metolius master cam (#1), pretty high up. I didn't plug anymore until reaching the obvious fissure directly above with a WC Helium yellow (#2). If you stick to the right, as the guide suggests I think R is fair, ie. with only my one piece on the face I had ground fall potential while placing the second piece. Unless I'm totally missing something/don't have small enough gear. Because of the slabby nature of the route though, I think it is a good lead. Put on your big boy pants, trust the feet and go get this one!
By MountainBroTroll
Oct 12, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent climbing, one of my favorite gear routes on the Wasatch rage - bomber placements on the lower half with the right gear (TCUs, 00-1), and perfect placements with larger gear when you get the flake (BD #1, .75, #2). Don't forgot to take in the view of the city while you're at the chains.

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