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Inner Gorilla 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kevin Capps
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,201
Submitted By: Kevin Capps on Apr 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Pulling through the crux.

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  • Location 

    This is in the Upper Primo Area above Nomad Cave. It is the left-facing arete about 25 feet left of Mildage.


    Bolted by Luke Childers, this route is a very stellar line with beautiful green streaks of lichen in the rock. After about 12 feet of climbing there's a no hands rest, this is where the route truly begins. The route starts by grabbing holds on both sides of the arete with a good amount of body tension. After pulling the crux, just hold on until you mantel up to the anchors. The rock is clean and the holds are very fun and sometimes a bit odd.


    6 bolts & 2 bolt anchor.

    Photos of Inner Gorilla Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Inner Gorilla.
    Inner Gorilla.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jay climbing on "Inner Gorilla."  A cold...
    Jay climbing on "Inner Gorilla." A cold...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Childers looking up at the route that would s...
    Luke Childers looking up at the route that would s...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of Inner Gorilla as seen from the app...
    BETA PHOTO: Another view of Inner Gorilla as seen from the app...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Inner Gorilla takes the left most arete on the wal...
    BETA PHOTO: Inner Gorilla takes the left most arete on the wal...

    Comments on Inner Gorilla Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 16, 2011

    This route is so much fun! Thanks for letting me get this one, Luke, I owe you a cold one. As for the rating, my guess is around 5.12, but it's difficult to be specific. It's harder than 12b, but easier than 13a
    By Luke Childers
    Apr 23, 2011
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    Yes sir, MR. Capps, it was my pleasure and your efforts on putting this one away were admirable to say the least. A fine line and special to me as well!! Hope all others will come to enjoy this gem as we have. Nice send for sure. Keep it up man 'cause I'm dig'in the enthusiasm!!!
    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 6, 2011

    Ya Luke, we need to get you back on this thing. It is such a cool route! I hope it gets the attention it deserves, because it has great moves. Thanks for bolting it for everyone.
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 6, 2011
    rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

    Got on this thing a month or so ago. Cool route that is a lot harder than it appears from the ground. Nice job, fellas.
    By Shirtless Mike
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 15, 2016
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    When we got to this line the only chalk was way left of the arete on large holds (impossible to lead while using these holds) and the chalk from the left hand holds on "Portrait in Flesh" After looking thru the pictures I realize that I climbed this route much more on the arete and left of the arete than the FA. I used pinches and underclings on the arete for the right hand, and crimps and sidepulls left of the arete for the left hand. Grade felt about 12d, however the falls felt like they could be awkward and the clips were hard. So be sure to study up on the pictures before heading out to this.

    Fun route, and thanks for the hard work.
    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 15, 2016

    Ya, I stayed slightly right of the arête for the crux on the FA. I watched a tall person go way left on toprope. It's a totally different route if you go way left and probably impossible to clip, but also a bit contrived if you force yourself to go right. It's definitely a funky crux and a little sharp.

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