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Routes in 5. The Beard
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Breakneck TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Col de Lui d'Aï TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Directe de la Momie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Extrême Bec TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fiddlers Elbow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inner Cheek TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Iron Bridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Louse, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Masada Lite TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nose Hair TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rough Skin TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stubbl TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tick, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 573 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jun 18, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Some thoughtful moves. Too bad it requires Trad gear to set up top-rope.
Start on rocks at right side of big corner. Get onto the slab at bottom of SouthEast face, gentle up its right side, and traverse into bottom of vague corner at right edge of SouthEast face. Go straight up without using only holds which are Left of the vertical line of the 4-inch right-facing corner in the ENE face. Then could trend left a bit to finish.
Variation: After the crux, could step back Left over onto the SouthEast face and do the finish of the Masada Lite route.
warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Start on rocks at right side of big corner. Get onto the slab at bottom of SouthEast face, gentle up its right side, and traverse into bottom of vague corner at right edge of SouthEast face. Go straight up without using only holds which are Left of the vertical line of the 4-inch right-facing corner in the ENE face. Then could trend left a bit to finish.
Variation: After the crux, could step back Left over onto the SouthEast face and do the finish of the Masada Lite route.
warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
On the Left boulder, at the big corner below the obvious arete between the SouthWest and SouthEast faces.
- - > see on this route photo
- - > see on this route photo
Protection
Top-Rope? Setting up top anchor requires Trad protection gear, perhaps medium-size cams (also perhaps medium-large stopper might help).
To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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