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5. The Beard
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breakneck TR 
Col de Lui d'Aï TR 
Directe de la Momie TR 
Extrême Bec TR 
Fiddlers Elbow TR 
Inner Cheek TR 
Iron Bridge TR 
Louse, The TR 
Masada Lite TR 
Nose Hair TR 
Rough Skin TR 
Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 
Stubbl TR 
Tick, The TR 

Inner Cheek 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: kenr on Jun 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The Beard : SE face of L boulder overview of route...

Description 

Some thoughtful moves. Too bad it requires Trad gear to set up top-rope.

Start on rocks at right side of big corner. Get onto the slab at bottom of SouthEast face, gentle up its right side, and traverse into bottom of vague corner at right edge of SouthEast face. Go straight up without using only holds which are Left of the vertical line of the 4-inch right-facing corner in the ENE face. Then could trend left a bit to finish.

Variation: After the crux, could step back Left over onto the SouthEast face and do the finish of the Masada Lite route.

warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

On the Left boulder, at the big corner below the obvious arete between the SouthWest and SouthEast faces.

- - > see on this route photo

Protection 

Top-Rope? Setting up top anchor requires Trad protection gear, perhaps medium-size cams (also perhaps medium-large stopper might help).

To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


Photos of Inner Cheek Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Beard : SE face of L boulder overview of route...
BETA PHOTO: The Beard : SE face of L boulder overview of route...

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