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Inknobvious Line 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Uphus, Bill Cramer and Chuck Bowker, June 1990
Page Views: 1,322
Submitted By: BCramer on May 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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In a sea of Knobs!

Portal Road Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One long pitch variation that joins El Diablo route at its first belay. Interesting face climbing on knobs.

Location 

At a black stain left of a left facing arch at the center of the El Gaucho Wall look for a bolt. Face climb straight up to the top of the arch. Tend left then up a sea of knobs to a bolt belay. Continue up El Diablo route to the top.

Protection 

Light rack, bolts and slings for knobs.


Photos of Inknobvious Line Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Whitney Portal, El Gaucho Wall (center), Inknobvio...
BETA PHOTO: Whitney Portal, El Gaucho Wall (center), Inknobvio...

Comments on Inknobvious Line Add Comment
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By Monty
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

No gear needed. Just 4-5 slings and a couple draws. Thought the traverse was much harder than 5.9 though. An 80m rope might get you down.
By Richard Shore
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R

A very nice climb. Thoughtful and engaging. Anywhere else, this thing would be a **** classic (I give it 4 only to offset the OP's 1 star). Only one detractor in my opinion...

The FA party skipped a good stance for a bolt right before the crux. As is, you have to do the crux moves ~15' out left (horizontal) from the 4th bolt. A fall from here would be disastrous; a huge pendulum across a face full of knobs and smack into the corner below. No reason not to give this one the dreaded "R." I'll agree with the Croft/Lewis guide rating here, 5.9 leader will need a change of underwear.

2 ropes to rappel. Long slings on the 4th and 5th bolts (start and end of traverse) will help with rope drag up higher.

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