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Organ Needle
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Ingraham's Gully 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160', Grade II
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: Drew Chojnowski on Mar 19, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Rough topo of the route, as viewed from the Retain...


This is a variation of the Normal Route as described in Ingraham's guide to the Organ Moutains It goes up a gully on the S face of Organ Needle, and is the quickest way to reach the summit. The rock in this gully is solid, the climbing is fun, and the views/exposure are spectacular.

Instead of following Ingraham's description by climbing onto the crumbly rock immediately north of Hummingbird Saddle, walk NE from the saddle, hugging the rock to your left. Bushwack up the first gully encountered, ignoring the concrete marker on the ground suggesting you continue hiking NE to the easier 3rd class route. Climb directly up the "easy 3rd class gully" (as Ingraham called it), which is near but does not necessarily involve some incredible exposure. To get a taste of the exposure, take a look to your left, but otherwise just stay in the gully. The gully cliffs out in dramatic fashion after about ~120 ft. At this point, climb up the rock to your right, toward the summit. Many options exist for the next section, but it is usually done by going up ~10 ft, then downclimbing to the right 5 ft to a less exposed shelf where a 10-15 ft vertical wall with excellent holds can be climbed to the summit.


We have never attempted descending the route, nor is doing so recommended. Instead, downclimb the Normal Route.


Although we've always free-soloed this route, occasionally in sneakers or hiking boots, climbing shoes are highly recommended since a fall could be very bad. The 2 or 3 technical moves on the route appear minimally protectable, but it'd certainly be feasible to build an anchor just above them to bring up a follower. A 60m rope and some small cams would suffice.

Photos of Ingraham's Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at where the route starts. It is &quo...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at where the route starts. It is &quo...

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By Ian Harris
From: Las Cruces NM
Mar 19, 2017
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

Good rock and a fun way up the Needle. It is definitely technical and exposed; recommended for climbers.

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