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Ingraham Glacier Direct 

Type:  Alpine, 4500', Grade II
Original: Mod. Snow [details]
Season: Winter-Spring
Page Views: 4,099
Submitted By: Colin Bartholomew on Jun 30, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Climbers at about 13,500 feet on the Ingraham Glac...


I'm a bit suprised this hasn't been added. Having just been up this route yesterday, I have a reason to add it now.
From Camp Muir at 10,080 feet, head over to Cathedral Cap or use the steeper but shorter Cadever Gap to access the Ingraham Glacier. Make sure you are roped up while on the Ingraham. Hike up the the flat spot at 11,100 feet that is called Ingraham Flats. From here you will be able to see the Disappointment Cleaver route to the East.

The route heads directly up the 45 degree headwall of the Ingraham Glacier avoiding many small and some huge crevasses. The stomped out route usually follows a switchback pattern, lowering the climbing slope to about 35 to 40 degrees. You will notice some huge seracs towards the west side of the Ingraham Glacier at about 12,500 feet. The route avoids these by cutting up to the east above the Disappointment Cleaver. The crevasses that you pass over at about 13,000 feet are incredibly huge. It makes you want to just stare in amazement.

The upper portion of the climb involves some low angle switchbacks until the summit rim is obtained at 14,100 feet. This section is more about perserverence in the lower oxegen high altitude air. From the crater rim, it is a 20 - 30 minute walk over to Columbia Crest at 14,411 feet.

Descend the same route.
Source- Summitpost


Mt. Rainier NP.


Pickets and screws JIC.

Photos of Ingraham Glacier Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ingraham Flats
BETA PHOTO: Ingraham Flats
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers high on Rainier at sunrise after climbing...
Climbers high on Rainier at sunrise after climbing...
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a quick break high on the Ingraham Glacier ...
Taking a quick break high on the Ingraham Glacier ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ingraham Glacier, 1975. Photo by Blitzo.
Ingraham Glacier, 1975. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ingraham Direct 1975. Photo by Blitzo.
Ingraham Direct 1975. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ingraham Direct 1975. Photo by Blitzo.
Ingraham Direct 1975. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Ingraham Glacier Direct Add Comment
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By Blitzo
Aug 25, 2010

A fun route! Lots of cravasses. Few people.
By Gill
From: minden, nevada
Sep 5, 2011

Is the Ingraham direct or the disappointment cleaver climbed in late April at all?

Has anyone done it then?

Any advice on the subject would be helpful.

I can't climb it in the summer because of work.
By Jon E.
Sep 12, 2011
rating: Mod. Snow

Gill: Typically Ingraham Direct (ID) is most popular in late spring. People stop using the route in early June due to crevasses getting difficult to manage. The Disappointment Cleaver (DC) route tends to open up right around early June. And by open up, I mean prior to then the ID is preferred over DC because it is pretty much a straight shot once you're on the glacier, and early in the season crevasses are not as much of a concern. One of the prime issues with ID is avalanche danger, I was up there on memorial day this year and our summit attempt was cut short due to this very issue. So while it is popular during the "off season" weather (as always) is a factor.

This link gives conditions for most of the routes up the mountain and is quite informative.

By Bernd
Jun 18, 2012

Hi, presumably a very ignorant question - but I do not have maps
nor anything (yet) on Rainier. So I just wanted to know: for an ascent
in late april/early may could ski be a reasonable option?

By Chris C.
From: Seattle, WA
May 24, 2017

This route is currently very melty. If you are planning to be on the summit late on a hot day, one or two extra pickets for running belays would probably be smart.

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