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YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 3,227
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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at the top before sunset

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This is the thin finger and tips crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. It's often toproped and my understanding is that it's only seen a couple leads.


Thin crack in between Rock Lobster and Polygrip. Shares anchor with Polygrip, but is commonly toproped from anchors on Rock Lobster.


Thin stuff up to 1.5 Friend, heavy in tips and finger sizes.

Photos of Inflictor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Toby cruxing on Inflictor
Toby cruxing on Inflictor
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Pesce climbing in style
Matt Pesce climbing in style
Rock Climbing Photo: Inflictor
Rock Climbing Photo: Racing shadows
Racing shadows
Rock Climbing Photo: Sustained fingers.
Sustained fingers.

Comments on Inflictor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 1, 2008

I agree that this route is most often toproped. I have lead it and know of multiple others who have as well. Pro is safe and plentiful. It actually takes stoppers in multiple places. My guess is that it has seem more than the "couple" leads the original poster claims it's seem.
By chris Kalous
Mar 9, 2009

So...if we fix up some anchors on this cliff with chains and such, would anybody freak if this got its own anchor? Running the rope off of Rock Lobster or Polygrip seems to have caused a hell of a lot more damage than a couple bolts would have.
By Ol Toby
From: CA
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Unlikely that this has seen few leads as the crack takes great gear. I found this to be an .11+ finger crack with a definite crux section where the crack pinches to tips, then beautiful .11 fingers to the top. The only detraction is that one could stem/reach to the Rock Lobster crack at key points, making the direct line slightly contrived. Still a beautiful line offering great climbing.

I support adding independent anchors to this line. Definitely good enough and toproping from either of the other anchors is causing obvious drag marks on the rock.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Like a longer Puma.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 4, 2011

Went straight for it on lead..NTB gear down low is kinda wierd, but takes nuts great. super fun with good movement. A few times I wanted to step over to RL and finish on that, but hung in there instead. 5.11
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 15, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

this is one where size really does matter...only smaller is better !
this was one of the hardest .12- ive done.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 15, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I agree with the anchor comments...really could have its own anchor.
this would help with the rope grooves.
By Jon Rhoderick
Nov 28, 2015

I felt that 2 .5s and 1 .75 was a little light on this climb, well over a third of this climb is that size, and it's nice to have one down low as well, 3 of each would easily be placed
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2017

Fun route. Climbed this with one .4 and one .5 for no particular reason. Was a wee bit runout. At least 3-4 .4s, a .5, and a .75 or two are highly recommended. Also barn-doored off the great rest before the crux for no particular reason. Had no trouble otherwise.

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