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Infierno del Dante 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Honnold-(variation, 2010) U. Rousseau- (direct, 2011?)
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Dec 31, 2016

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Remy Franklin on the sustained middle-upper sectio...

Description 

Engaging face climbing on crimps, with some of the hardest moves off the ground and passing through all 7 circles of hell, culminating in a heart-rending crux face at 95 feet. This climb has it all and should be on the visiting climber's list, if you dare.

Pass the ghost of Rousseau who dares all to enter Hades without the use of a stick-clip.

Pass the ghost of Honnold, who by entering a tufa system out left skipped a energy-sapping extended cross move and robbed himself of the full experience (and still called it 13d).

At the hardest single move, deadpoint pass the ghosts of those who did not train power before their trip to Mexico.

At the redpoint crux, watch the ghosts of those who did not rehearse their beta well enough trip, rip and wail past you into the void.

At the jug at the last bolt, ignore those voices of doubt, calm thy nerves and paste your feet upon those slippery nubs.

Leave eternal damnation and exit through that slippery navel of satan.

Location 

The beautiful long, grey face to the right of Tufa King Short and left of El Camino. Opposing sidepulls start the route.

Protection 

Bolts. But don't expect a clip up through the engaging runout crimps.


Photos of Infierno del Dante Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Passing through the 7th circle
Passing through the 7th circle
Rock Climbing Photo: Remy Franklin contemplating the engaging right-han...
Remy Franklin contemplating the engaging right-han...

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