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The Riviera
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Abandonment T 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Infestation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Greg Hand & Ron Olsen, 10/27/2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,688
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Oct 28, 2010  with updates from Matt Bentley

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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BETA PHOTO: The slab, upper, area after the crux start.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was named for the 2 wasps seen in a crack at the start. (No wasps were harmed during the ascent).

Begin in a flared dihedral and follow 5 bolts passing a very small pine bush. Some supplemental gear may be needed.

Location 

This is on the far right side of cliff, about 30 feet right of Splash. It is just left of a large flake.

Protection 

5 bolts plus finger-sized cam before 1st bolt and red Alien size after 2nd bolt.

The anchor is same as for Monte Carlo (route to the right).

The left Mussy Hook has been replaced by Ron and Bruce (4/12/2017 see Monte Carlo), and the anchor is safe.


Photos of Infestation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt cranking through the crux.
Matt cranking through the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: This bit is easier for average to taller folks and...
This bit is easier for average to taller folks and...

Comments on Infestation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2017
By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you're short this could be 5.9 and a spicy first clip (we didn't bother with a cam), but if you're 5'10"+, just stem and use your feet and it's pretty easy to get to the jug out left. I practically had a no hands stance below the reach.
By farkas.time
From: Storrs, CT
Jul 15, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Make sure you don't think this is Chouette, which is not in the Boulder Canyon guide. I managed to convince myself that it was. Oops.

One could just go for the first bolt without placing gear behind the (awkward) left-facing crack, as suggested, just don't fall -- it will be uncomfortable, and the start is technical. A small cam makes this start less scary.

Also, I didn't place a second cam above the 2nd bolt, and felt safe, whatever that's worth. The first 20' is 5.9, the remainder is 5.5-5.7.
By dseltzer
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2011

Hard first move or two, then 5.6-7 or so climbing the rest of the way.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FWIW, this had been climbed at least by 2001 if not earlier.
By John Tex
From: Estes
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There is some really nice holds at the first clip with one of the harder moves of the route getting to them. If you just stem and find the good feet, it shouldn't be a problem without some additional gear. There is another crimpy crux move later on that is well protected but definitely goes along with the rating in my opinion.

One of the better protected routes on the crag for someone without a trad rack. If you can make the first bolt, then the rest of it is doable without a rack. Don't think the wasp nest made it through the winter.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Hardest moves are getting off the ground. A wet start and confusion as to which route we were actually on made the crux a little harder than necessary. Probably 5.9 if you climb it right. Pro at the start is recommended if only to keep you from taking your partner down the hill if you fall....
By Jim Fox
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 26, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First 15-20 feet is really fun. A bit reachy for shorter folks (I'm 5'9"). My son is 6'2" and was able to climb it with a lot less difficulty (and fewer moves).

1st bolt is a little high & placing a piece of pro lower is a good idea (for reason in post above) unless you are confident you won't fall (or stick clip the bolt).

5.9+ for short folks, in my opinion.
By Jim Fox
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 27, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this on 1st attempt today. Key for shorter folks (I'm 5'9') is to get your feet up high so you can grab the great jug hold to the left. Once I got that hold, it was pretty easy to pull the roof.
I struggled with this climb last time I was here, because the hold is a bit hard to reach, but it was pretty easy today.
5.9 for the roof and some tricky slab above.

Great fun!
By Aaron Sefton
Nov 24, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There's a hidden hold that's BOMBER maybe 3 feet to left and above the 1st bolt. The trick is to find it.
By Rob King
From: Lone Tree
Jun 26, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

First big move to the bolt is legit on lead. You gotta commit to goin left and up to the jug.

5.10+ on lead because of the first move. If you miss the jug and fall from a blown foot, you're deckin' really hard. 5.9- if you top rope it.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 28, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Placing gear before the 1st bolt helps limit this risk. Greg Hand suggested this in the Protection section above.
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jun 28, 2016

Should I just add a bolt? Hahahaha!
By hwendlandt Wendlandt
Mar 18, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The left mussy hook is definitely compromised. Its clip flips right up past the hook. Not much of an issue if you are rapping or TRing, but if anyone is moving left to the next anchors, it seems very possible that the rope would slip out of that left hook.
By Matt Bentley
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Left Mussy hook has been replaced (not by me).

The challenge of this route for me came on the slab section just over the first bolt, but I'm also not that great at slab. I enjoyed the route but didn't find it to be very sustained. Once you nail the first two bolts, you're done.

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