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The Secret Stash/Cicle Area akaThe Club
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WI4 M10

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice
Original: WI4 M10 [details]
FA: Rich Purnell, 2001
Season: winter.
Page Views: 1,070
Submitted By: rich purnell on Jan 1, 2001

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On an upside, bareback attempt. Figure 4 for the ...


This is a very hard route at the Secret Cicle area of East Vail....


5 hard clips. Watch the ground on this one.

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By Ferrato
Oct 27, 2006

This route was rather erased by an unfortunate rock-fall incident in 2004, the big block in the picture which the guy is pulling on came down in a big way. In March of 2006, much of the remaining loose rock was cleared and the route was renovated, much of the upper 2/3 of the dry-tooling is the same although the start is now much safer albeit still strenuous. Probably M10, has only 4 bolts now and clipping #4 is a Lulu. Very campus-like, hard. Now referred to as "Infernal Machine", rather fitting I'd say. Exited right on a subsidiary pillar, so new start and different finish. Nice route.
By richP
Feb 15, 2007
rating: WI4 M9+

New start different finish? I remember the FA of this route at the end of the season in 2000, stellar "thin" pillar climbing I actually could feel the dagger sway. Over the next few years and sending the route over a half dozen times the exit onto the ice has always been different. That is what makes mixed climbing so fascinating - it's always changing. I had actually been in the cave not 1 day before this rockfall occured. We decided not to climb as It was super warm and late late in the season. An attest to how solid the rock is when frozen and how brittle Vail rock is when it is warm. We wondered for years if this block would actually go but could never pry it out. It's not like it erased the entire route, just the first move or so, which use to be super, super hard and actually the crux of the route.

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