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Infernal Affairs 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tuzi, Xiao Lu, A Niu 12/2007
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 13, 2016

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The climber is on "Where's the Jug?"...

Description 

Quite the squeeze job, but a wonderful route nonetheless. Start up a slight left-facing dihedral and pull fun moves up to a big hole. A tricky sequence here to small crimps and then a good rest. The pump continues through big holds and gymnastic moves to a set of chalked holds along a slopey horizontal. Find the ones you want, pull up to a spike-edge, and crux to the jugs. Keep it together through the last bit and a small runout as you pull up to the ledge.

Heinous for the grade!

Location 

Middle of the wall, left of a black streak, right of a small roof.

Protection 

Bolts


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