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YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kevin O'Donnell & Ryan Courageous (2008)
Page Views: 1,073
Submitted By: Matt Fowls on Apr 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Listed as a project in Squeezing the Lemmon II, this route was sent by Kevin O'Donnell in 2008. It is characterized by steep and powerful climbing on good rock, with a variety of features. 3 boulder problems separated by easier climbing get you up to the chains. The hardest of the 3 is at the top, however there are a few good rests to regain energy.

this route climbs extremely well.


located between Elfin Warrior and Delirious, this is the second bolt line on the left side of the wall.


very well-bolted

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By Matt Fowls
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 17, 2010

This is one of the coolest routes that i have ever been on. Nice job Kevin!
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 4, 2011

Fun route indeed. The upper boulder is way stiff, and it seems that some nice cool temps would really help with sticking to some of those holds. Also, I left a draw high on the route (6.4.11). I will be back for it so this should not be considered "booty". Thanks.
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Oct 26, 2011
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I was expecting much more out of this line from what the comments said. Really the 'whole' route revolves around one hold. This really slopey rail that if you don't have cold conditions aka puffy weather then it will be hard to stick.
By JSchultz
May 5, 2012

Has anybody got the new FA since the jug hold at the end of the crux was pulled off? Definitely much harder now...
By Matt Fowls
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 22, 2013

A large portion of why I enjoy this route is precisely because it incorporates some elements of harder bouldering into sport climbing (IE, challenging holds where conditions _do_ matter). Another example demonstrating how subjectivity permeates our sport. I sent the route today in 80 degree weather. Really wasn't so bad and I had a good time doing it.
By iancevans
May 22, 2013

Wasn't puffy weather today when Matt sent with the sun beating on the slopey rail. After the break, anyway, the crux is 6-8 moves of compression bouldering checking in around V8. We found a no-hands rest before the crux, which slightly detracts from the quality.

The route is fun and unique for Lemmon; nothing to write home about, but "if you have the means, I highly recommend it."

Nice work, Matt.

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