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Inesperance S 

Inesperance 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 341
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jan 7, 2009

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Description 

P1-Climb up a corner then face to an anchor.
P2-Continue up and at the next anchor drop your belay device, have your partner show you how to tie a munter hitch if you don't already know.
P3-Cast off on one of the best pitches anywhere. Climb the rippling white shield of rock on perfect 2 and 3 finger pockets and little else. They are always just within a reasonable distance from the last hold. bolted anchor.
P4-I thought that this was a little harder than the 5.11d grade given. Confusing climbing up highly featured vertical to just under vertical rock. Very few of the many ripples and ridges are good enough to use making the climbing very insecure and it seemed a bit runout to me up here as well.

Location 

The third line from the left on the main Grande Face. There is a pretty big break in routes to the right of Inesperance as well.

Protection 

Bolts and bolted anchors.


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By kiff
Nov 23, 2011

Pitches 1 and 2 can easily be linked to yield an ~80 ft pitch of 11b/c. the last pitches was one of the best face climbs i did in ceuse, sustained and runout

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