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Chicken Shit Salad S 
Direct North Face T 
Drop 'em South S 
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Fruits of Optomisim, The S 
Inertia T 
Milk of Manatee T 
Original Optomist T 
Overcoming Inertia T 
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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: arjunmh on Apr 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Setting up a rappel off the second bolt after I ha...

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This is the route that drew us upslope from Proto Pipe. It ascends the prominent sharp arete that gets you to the top of a hidden tower that has exceptional exposure. It's not really visible from anywhere because it doesn't skyline, but when we started exploring up above Proto Pipe this tower and route stood out. The rock quality isn't as good as we hoped and hence the 2 rather than 3 stars. 3 stars for the exposure and for getting to the top of this fantastic and improbably spire! Some tricky and heady moves, but mostly well protected climbing and we put bolts where the gear felt especially sketchy.


Upslope of Proto Pipe, ascend the sharp looking prominent arete that faces Proto and get to the top of a thin spires. Two bolt anchor with quick links and chains attached.


3 bolts and a selection of at least a single rack, if not a double.

Photos of Inertia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: DAS near the top.
DAS near the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: AMH on the FA deciding that the crest of the arete...
AMH on the FA deciding that the crest of the arete...
Rock Climbing Photo: DAS after pulling the first main bulge -- we wante...
DAS after pulling the first main bulge -- we wante...
Rock Climbing Photo: AMH at the top after the FA.
AMH at the top after the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: DAS on the second ascent nearing the top, rope sho...
DAS on the second ascent nearing the top, rope sho...

Comments on Inertia Add Comment
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By ldsclimber
From: Santan Valley, AZ
Apr 12, 2013

LOL You WIN!!! Great minds think alike. That is so cool, yet so disappointing a the same time. We have got to get together and climb.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Apr 12, 2013

Thanks, and also sorry to not have done it together. It was you and Austin's efforts on the new Totem Pole routes that got David and me back over to this area. There are certainly many cool looking routes on good looking rock left to develop here! Yes, looking forward to being out there together.
By James Willis
From: Gilbert, Arizona
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

It seems that the two biners on the chains were bootied as of Sunday, 5/12
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
May 17, 2013

Ah, I'll change the description -- I edited it on the other 4 climbs, but must've forgotten to edit this one. Sorry. A couple weeks ago David and I went in and climbed all the new routes we'd set and replaced the biners with chains such that the biners wouldn't be bootied and the anchors can be used either as TR anchors with the leader adding a couple quickdraws, or just belay from the top (recommended given the views from the tops of all these towers) and then rap off the chains. Thanks for the heads up!
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Mar 10, 2014

Good to get on this again yesterday, but it reminded me that the top of the first arete is still covered with loose rock that I haven't cleaned off -- there are always dogs around the base that make throwing so much loose stuff off difficult. Climb carefully around this and be aware that your rope may pull stuff off if you let it pile up on the ledge while pulling (i.e. pull to climber's right of the arete).
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 19, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Finally catching up on my feedback after two weeks running around like mad. Climbed this with Arjun early this month and actually had a lot of fun. Very exposed but reasonable climbing at the top. A single set of cams and stoppers did the trick.

I looked the arête at the top, particularly where I had to step around left to open air. Nice climb Arjun and David!
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Dec 5, 2015

Pulled the loose rock off the top of the first arete. The dust should wash off with the next storm. Definitely a fun climb, especially if you stay on the arete for as much of it as possible. Now that the rubble is off it's in much better condition.
By Paul Zander
From: Neuchatel, CH
Oct 18, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Are there really 3 bolts on this? I looked and could only find 2. must've gone too far right...

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