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Courthouse Rock
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Indie Buttress  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: John "Verm" Sherman/ Larry Harpe, January 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: Larry Harpe on Jan 10, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Indie Buttress Topo


Indie Buttress is the prow in the middle of the east face of Courthouse rock.


1 set of stoppers, #7-10 hex, 1 set cams to 3", 4" optional
1 60m rope
Many long runners


1st pitch: Start up a 3rd class ramp on the right side of the buttress just past the highest Palo Verdes on the slope. Climb past a fix pin to a 2 bolt anchor(Aromatherapy ledge). 4th class 110'

2nd pitch: Prance up Pussycat Prow past bolts to Hard Boiled ledge. Gear anchor. Pull down not out. 5.5 155'

3rd pitch: Climb up easy ramp. Take care to run rope to not damage baby saguaros. Bushwhack through shrubs and set gear anchor on ledge below obvious crack. (Hillbilly Hilton) the Rap anchors are on the far end of this ledge. 5.0 120'

4th pitch: The Crux. Climb up past "The Bone Hole" to Barely Eagle Ledge. 5.8 95'

5th pitch: The Star stripper aka Demi Moore pitch. This one might get better once it cleans up. Start up left (There is an off route piton to the right) past a few bolts to Torpedo Ledge. A nice place for a beer. 5.5 100'

6th pitch: Climb the What What? pitch to the top of the buttress. 5.3 65'

7th pitch: Ewe Crazy Travese. Travel left past 3 bolts to the saddle.

Follow the Mountaineers route or some other way to the summit. Sign the register on top.

To get down reverse the last pitch. 3 one rope raps will get you back to The Hillbilly Hilton. From there head climbers right to find the rap bolts. Two more raps from there.

Photos of Indie Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of pitch 5.
BETA PHOTO: The start of pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Laurel belays Brian on pitch 2. We stopped at the ...
BETA PHOTO: Laurel belays Brian on pitch 2. We stopped at the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: East face of Courthouse Rock.
BETA PHOTO: East face of Courthouse Rock.

Comments on Indie Buttress Add Comment
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By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jan 11, 2016

I've done this route a few times. It doesn't need a lot of protection and the bolts are adequately spaced. The scariest part of the ride is the final traverse.

Stop at the last bolt on traverse to belay. You should be able to see each other; if you can't see your partner, you went to far on the traverse.

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