REI Community
Indian Rock

Select Route:
"Not So Direct" T 

Indian Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.86971, -120.07834 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,253
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2010
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]


Indian Rock is the largest rock in the Tahoe Basin. This 1,000 foot face, actually the northwest face of Angora Peak, rises above Lily Lake. Three terraces divide the face. The Tahoe Wall, above the right side of the second terrace, is 400 feet high. The Treasure Chest is a square wall, 300 feet high, in the center of the face.

I'm sure many new routes have been done since I was last there.

Routes, left to right:

  • Indirect Route, 1,000', Rick Sumner and friends

Routes, unsorted:

  • "White Lightning" 5.9
  • "Doolagooga Dihedral" 5.7
  • "Orange Marmalade" 5.10b
  • "Rare Gem" 5.10b, Rick Sumner and friends
  • "Indian Head" 5.9
  • "Oid's Overhang" 5.9
  • "Andy's Corner" 5.8

("AlDude" and John Nye put up a new route near the Indian Head in the 1980s, maybe this is Indian Head 5.9?).

Getting There 

Take the Fallen Leaf Lake Road from Highway 89 approximately three miles north of the "Y" in South Lake Tahoe. Take the left fork of the road before crossing the bridge, to Lily Lake.

Follow the Triangle/Tamarack Lakes Trail on foot for one mile. Then do a talus death march up to the cliff. Allow at least an hour.

Descend north to where one can go left down 3rd class at the edge of the rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Indian Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Rock, red line marks "Not So Direct.&q...

"Not So Direct" 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Indian Rock
10 pitches through roofs corners and cracks, two hanging belays, bivy on upper tier starts left of indirect route by a few hundred feet up broken roofs to start....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Indian Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Rock Lily Lake
Indian Rock Lily Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Rock and high country. Photo by Blitzo.
Indian Rock and high country. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun looking arete on Indian Rock
Fun looking arete on Indian Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Rock from Mt Tallac. Photo by Blitzo.
Indian Rock from Mt Tallac. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Indian Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By MisterCattell Cattell
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Jan 21, 2015
Anyone know anything about Rare Gem? Or at least where I can find info?
By BobbyReno
From: Larkspur CA
Jan 30, 2015
Looking for Beta on Indian Rock also or where to find information also.

Anything will help.
By Justin Johnsen
From: Nor Cal
Feb 4, 2015
Hey Bobby, this is what I've seen on the Supertopo forums.
By MisterCattell Cattell
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Nov 25, 2015
Bobby, we are seeking (or at least were at one point) info on the same place. Let's climb.
By William Fleming
May 26, 2017
I've been heading up there for a couple seasons. Im wondering if there is a desire to keep this cliff obscure? thus the lack of info? I know there are already some bolts out there and some limited beta available, but I wanted to see if there are any feelings one way or the other about further development and beta sharing. Would anyone have objections to installing bolted anchors and/or an occasional lead bolt up there? And what's the feeling on publishing topos?

I know the cliff is inside the Desolation Wilderness so I believe hand drilling is obligatory for any bolting, but is there a desire around town to keep this cliff off the books? Or would some development, fixed anchors, and topos be welcome? Any input would be appreciated! Thanks!

Ive seen it in the old Carville guide, I'm just wondering if people have feelings about new routes/bolts.
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
May 28, 2017
Its mentioned in the Carville Guide

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About