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Indian Paintbrush 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Alex Bury (TD 2013)
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Alex Bury on Jul 27, 2012

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The boulder problem start.

Park near the top of Signal Street.


A sixty five foot trad climb in a great setting.
Options for the start include a super thin 5.12 boulder problem on a beautiful, water hardened sandstone slab. This is the most direct line to the first chance for pro, a cam behind a rib. Two 5.8 starting variations offer alternatives.
The uppermost part is a section of thin and exposed 5.8 with solid pro below the feet.
The top out is great and offers excellent views of the canyons and the East End of Ojai.
Two half-inch bolts reside topside for anchor duty.

The three starting variations:
Wandering Start (5.8) Starts right of the Boulder Problem Start. Grab the shelf and mantle. Then traverse left to the rib.
Right Side Direct (5.8) R Begin as for the Wandering Start but climb directly upward through the lower face. This variation is unprotected.
Boulder Problem Start (5.12) Micro edges, directly beneath the left facing ribs. A stout problem on good rock guards the first chance for pro.

Top Roping: a top rope can be set up on two bolts by scrambling up the right hand side of the formation (3rd class) on the obvious trail.


To reach the base:
Upon reaching the saddle, follow the trail into the trees. The trail will rise and head left, following the cliff band. Before you reach the 3rd class gully, a faint trail heads downhill. Follow this climbers trail to the base.
To reach the top of the climb:
Follow the directions above, but scramble up the 3rd class gully.


Single cams #(.75-4).

Photos of Indian Paintbrush Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from Foothill Trail.
BETA PHOTO: The view from Foothill Trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nolan scoring the second ascent.
Nolan scoring the second ascent.

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By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Jan 19, 2015

Dev. Notes:
This was the first climb done in the area, and was so scruffy it barely looked climbable. But its position above the meadow was great and the place in general picture perfect, and I would sometimes hike up and top rope it by myself. Eventually I was able to get others to come check it out and, after some cleaning and a handful of ascents, it started to look like a reasonable lead. There was even a cool boulder problem start directly beneath the ribs.
Since then it's been led a bunch and I've seen it done onsight as well.

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