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Indian Head Direct 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tim Fisher and Terry Jennings, 1981
Page Views: 1,043
Submitted By: sanz on May 14, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The Indian Head - look up to find it looming over ...


I am posting this route in hopes that some of the Moore's vets can add more info. I am pretty sure that we (and others, from what I have heard) started this thing wrong and did a sort of indirect version.

The guide references starting in "a V slot with an overhang at the bottom." We started in what was more like a chimney, toward the left side of the little briar patch under the Indian Head. I am now pretty sure this is "Nevermore." It is definitely longer than 40 feet and harder than 5.7, as P1 is described in the guide. This made our second pitch a short, easy diagonal traverse up and right to the dark corner where the money pitch starts.

The money pitch is impossible to miss and amazing! Our "Indian Head Indirect" version of P1 and P2 was also actually pretty cool, but I am quite sure it is not the right start. I am hoping this gets some folks talking about the proper start so that others who wanna get on this thing feel more prepared and do it right!


Good question!

The Indian Head feature is hard to miss as you walk from the Ampitheater to the North End. There is a little briar-filled alcove under the feature. The proper start of the route is somewhere in here. The wide chimney on the left side of the briar patch is "Nevermore" and can also be used to start the route.

If you have double ropes, the guide says you can rap from a tree island climber's right of the Indian Head. For a single rope rap, scramble along the rest of the ridge that forms the Indian Head and descend the gully to the left.


Standard Moore's rack. No fixed anchors.

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By asrollin
From: Salisbury, NC
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Did the "Indirect" version today, and man that final pitch is amazing! First 5.10 onsite and damn if it wasnt a good one. Had sort of an epic trying to get my gear down though, due to my partner being unable to follow the last pitch. Word for the wise - have an ascender if climbing with a partner who isnt as strong of a climber!

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