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All Locations >
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Queen Valley Area
> Geology Tour Rd
> Jerry's Quarry…
> Lost Pencil
[Redacted]
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Lost Pencil
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[Redacted] T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Coming Up T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jailbird S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Shoes For Sunny S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Number Two (aka the Weasel Boys Arete) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sexy Bolt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Riverside Bunch, 1967, FFA: Jon Lonne & Dennis Johnson, January 1977 |
| Page Views: | 2,035 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | john durr on Oct 29, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Indian Giver is a bold route up the southwest face of the beautiful Lost Pencil pillar. Thin, steep Joshua Tree face climbing that is very insecure. A fall getting to the second bolt could be disastrous.
Start near a shallow dihedral by reaching/jumping to a large face hold on the right arete of the corner. I think a hard mantle onto this hold is the true crux. More hard face up and right gains another big jug. A terrifying 5.10c mantle here to an obvious chossy jug and the second bolt. Head up and right to the arete and the third bolt on big features. Cross the arete on to easier runnout climbing and an awesome summit.
Considering the nature of the climbing, this is an impressive FFA for 1977!
Start near a shallow dihedral by reaching/jumping to a large face hold on the right arete of the corner. I think a hard mantle onto this hold is the true crux. More hard face up and right gains another big jug. A terrifying 5.10c mantle here to an obvious chossy jug and the second bolt. Head up and right to the arete and the third bolt on big features. Cross the arete on to easier runnout climbing and an awesome summit.
Considering the nature of the climbing, this is an impressive FFA for 1977!
Location
The beautiful west face of the Lost Pencil. This route starts up on the pedestal. This route gets lots of sun from late in the morning on.
Approach via an easy 20 foot long chimney hidden by boulders on the west face or a short, sharp 5.8 hand crack about 20 feet to the left (north).
To descend, rappel all the way back down from the top to below the approach pitch west with a single 60 meter rope, best to use the route Number Two's anchor for this. Watch your rope ends.
Approach via an easy 20 foot long chimney hidden by boulders on the west face or a short, sharp 5.8 hand crack about 20 feet to the left (north).
To descend, rappel all the way back down from the top to below the approach pitch west with a single 60 meter rope, best to use the route Number Two's anchor for this. Watch your rope ends.
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