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Lost Pencil
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Indian Giver T 
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New Shoes For Sunny S 
Number Two (aka the Weasel Boys Arete) S 
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Indian Giver 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Riverside Bunch, 1967, FFA: Jon Lonne & Dennis Johnson, January 1977
Season: A cool day in the shade
Page Views: 837
Submitted By: john durr on Oct 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Southwest aspect of Lost Pencil - with Indian Give...

Description 

Indian Giver is a bold route up the southwest face of the beautiful Lost Pencil pillar. Thin, steep Joshua Tree face climbing that is very insecure. A fall getting to the second bolt could be disastrous.

Start near a shallow dihedral by reaching/jumping to a large face hold on the right arete of the corner. I think a hard mantle onto this hold is the true crux. More hard face up and right gains another big jug. A terrifying 5.10c mantle here to an obvious chossy jug and the second bolt. Head up and right to the arete and the third bolt on big features. Cross the arete on to easier runnout climbing and an awesome summit.

Considering the nature of the climbing, this is an impressive FFA for 1977!

Location 

The beautiful west face of the Lost Pencil. This route starts up on the pedestal. This route gets lots of sun from late in the morning on.

Approach via an easy 20 foot long chimney hidden by boulders on the west face or a short, sharp 5.8 hand crack about 20 feet to the left (north).

To descend, rappel all the way back down from the top to below the approach pitch west with a single 60 meter rope, best to use the route Number Two's anchor for this. Watch your rope ends.

Protection 

Three bomber bolts / two bolt rappel anchor - all new.


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By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Oct 29, 2010

Originally rated 5.10c.
By Randy
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Did this with Rob Raker way back when. Rob floated the lead of course. Cool summit and worth 3 of 5 stars just because the cool factor.
By Mark J Gain
Aug 20, 2012

Scared me... But I lived to tell about it :)
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 10, 2015

Great description - related to the character of the route, and perhaps also contributing to the lack of ticks for this one.

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