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Indian Creek Boulders

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Medicine Man, The 

Indian Creek Boulders Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.74854, -119.58143 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bryan G on Dec 28, 2012
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Indian Creek, a ways up-canyon and before it is jo...

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Indian Canyon is the major drainage which separates the Arrowhead Arete and Castle Cliffs (to the west) from the Rhombus Wall and Lehamite Buttress (to the east). In a wet Spring, the creek runs in force and adds to the ambiance, but can also flood the starts to a few of the boulders. Most of the year the creek bed is dry. The boulders are located just a short ways above the Valley Loop Trail on either side of the creek. The area attracts few climbers and even fewer tourists so it's a great place to find some solitude. This is also a great spot during the dead of winter. Due to being slightly elevated off the valley floor, on a south facing slope, it receives more direct sunlight and is probably the first bouldering spot in the Valley proper to dry out after a January snow storm. I've seen the area completely snow-free and climbable while Camp 4 and the Ahwahnee boulders were still buried under a foot of powder.

The boulders here aren't very concentrated like they are in Camp 4, but there's a handful of classic problems lying around and enough one and two star problems to fill out a full day of bouldering. Due to the lack of traffic there's some moss and lichen in places, but the texture of the rock also hasn't been worn off so you can actually stick to the footholds. The vast majority of the problems lie at the low end of the difficulty scale but there are also a few V-hard testpieces and projects.

The best concentration of problems is in the vicinity of the Medicine Man. The Medicine Man itself offers several heart-pounding highballs on nicely featured vertical rock. Just 100 ft to the east of that is the Matterhorn, which has a handful of excellent steep 'V0' jug hauls. And just a few paces further east and facing the Matterhorn is a cave formed by a couple boulders which has a few more easy and moderate classics.

It's also worth stopping at the Free Clinic for The Cool Long Warm-Up (VB) and a great V6 up the mossy face on the backside.

Getting There 

Park at Churchbowl and hike on the Valley Floor Loop trail heading west. Most of the boulders are on the north side of the trail. If you hike a bit past the turnoff for the Medicine Man area, you will also find a few developed boulders below the trail to the south.

Climbing Season

For the Yosemite Valley Bouldering area.

Weather station 0.1 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Indian Creek Boulders

Dr. Decker V1 5  California : Yosemite National Park : ... : The Medicine Man
This is a nice problem on the mossy north face of the Medicine Man. It could use some more traffic to clean up. When I did it, I had to brush off the holds as I went.Start standing on a small boulder near the center of the face. Mantle onto a little shelf and then traverse left on thin edges to a hole. The first move of the traverse is scary because the rock is below you, but after that you get out over a clear landing. From the hole climb straight up to an easy topout.I think the easiest way do...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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