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Indian Cove

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Indian Cove Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,000'
Location: 34.0938, -116.1566 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 216,092
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 20, 2002
Forecast:
Today

49° | 40°
Saturday

51° | 39°
Sunday

48° | 39°
Monday

48° | 34°
Tuesday

48° | 33°
Wednesday

49° | 32°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Desert Iguana. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Indian Cove is a stand-alone section of the park, located to the north of the main park and around 1000 feet lower in elevation. This, plus the fact that it is relatively sheltered, make it a good destination on cold winter days. Additionally, unlike the main park, the campsites in Indian Cove can be reserved and cost (as of Jan 2011 $15/night) -- on the other hand, there's no park entrance fee.

The rock tends to be slightly grainier than some of the other popular areas (Lost Horse, Real Hidden Valley), and many of the routes are a bit shorter. Nonetheless, there's some great climbing here, probably close to a thousand routes from 5.0 all the way up, and as a bonus most of it is within a hundred yards or so of the road, so the approaches are practically non-existent. A few less populated crags lie up on the slope of the Wonderland of Rocks (the south side of IC) or up Rattlesnake Canyon in the Wonderland.

Certain formations at Indian Cove can be overrun with gang-ropers (Feudal Wall, Short Wall, Billboard Buttress, Pixie Rock), so plan accordingly. Other great areas to check out include Moosedog Tower, Dos Equis Wall, Corral Wall, Wonder Bluffs, and more that I don't have time to list here. One general word of warning: the further north you get, the grainier and more crumbly the rocks tend to get. Grain Central Station has that name for a reason, and although Morbid Mound is relatively popular, I can't figure out why.

Rock Climbing Photo: Campground Map as provided by the park (some editi...
Campground Map as provided by the park (some editing for clarity)

Getting There 

Follow the 29 Palms Highway past the entrance to the main park in the town of Joshua Tree. The entrance to Indian Cove is between the towns of Joshua Tree and Twentynine Palms. Keep a look out for Indian Cove Road, on the right side of the highway. If you're approaching from the west, look for a Del Taco billboard to mark the spot.

Turn south on Indian Cove Road and head straight into the park. After a couple of miles, you'll pass a small ranger station, and after another mile or so, you're there.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.3 miles from here

627 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',56],['2 Stars',228],['1 Star',309],['Bomb',10]
['<=5.6',100],['5.7',69],['5.8',109],['5.9',77],['5.10',182],['5.11',64],['5.12',18],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Indian Cove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Indian Cove:
Tranquility   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower
Who's First   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Indian Cove Campground : Pixie Rock
I Love my Marine   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Campfire Crag : Campfire Crag - South Face
Taken for Granite   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress
200 Motels   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress
The Sand Donkey (aka Will It or Won't It)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar
We Dive At Dawn   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress
El Chivo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Indian Cove Campground : The Bilbo Buttresses
Direct South Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower
Gozer the Gozerian   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Apparition Rock : Apparition Rock (Front)
Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Indian Cove Campground : Pixie Rock
Firewater Chimney   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Valley of Kings : The Arrowhead
Right V Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Short Wall : Short Wall - Left Side
Party in the Desert   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Corral Wall : Corral Wall - Left Side
Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   Rattlesnake Canyon : Somewhere n00b
Panama Red   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle
Powered by Old English   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   The Valley of Kings : The Lynch Crag
Eureka!   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress
The Last Stand   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Valley of Kings : The Arrowhead
South of Heaven   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Valley of Kings : Slatanic Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Indian Cove

Featured Route For Indian Cove
Rock Climbing Photo: Firmly embedded in the sustained crux section just...

The Little Big Horn 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Indian Country
Begin at the top of a boulder with a small platform on top (Two bolt belay anchor). Clip the first bolt on a slightly overhanging face and make difficult / technical moves (12-)to a polished dish. Step up left into another dish and clip the second bolt. Continue on thin edges past two more bolts (5.11) and reach a horn at the base of a finger / hand crack. Relatively easy climbing leads to a bulging checkerboard patina face (5.9+). Small TCU's or stoppers / brass protect the final moves to the t...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Indian Cove Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainbow in Indian Cove right after the rain.
Rainbow in Indian Cove right after the rain.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainbow in Indian Cove right after the rain.
Rainbow in Indian Cove right after the rain.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clouds and Rays at Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Clouds and Rays at Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning Sun from Indian Cove Site 90 looking west,...
Morning Sun from Indian Cove Site 90 looking west,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Tortoise. Photo by Blitzo.
Desert Tortoise. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice fat chuckwalla pumping in the sun.
A nice fat chuckwalla pumping in the sun.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rattlesnakes are well camouflaged. Photo by Blitzo...
Rattlesnakes are well camouflaged. Photo by Blitzo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Desert Tortoise, found crossing the main road into...
Desert Tortoise, found crossing the main road into...
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Cove campground.
Indian Cove campground.
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Cove-snow. Photo by Blitzo.
Indian Cove-snow. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Cove overview map showing major formations ...
BETA PHOTO: Indian Cove overview map showing major formations ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Watch where you put your hands. Photo by Blitzo.
Watch where you put your hands. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Willit Pillar
BETA PHOTO: Willit Pillar
Rock Climbing Photo: Lightning near Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Lightning near Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clouds over Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Clouds over Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pano of Indian Cove camp ground. Moose Dog Tower i...
Pano of Indian Cove camp ground. Moose Dog Tower i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Billboard outside Indian Cove. Be sure to look you...
Billboard outside Indian Cove. Be sure to look you...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thunderhead-Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Thunderhead-Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alpentine Wall
BETA PHOTO: Alpentine Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: The new market at Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
The new market at Indian Cove. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the Corral Wall, Joshua Tree NP
The view from the Corral Wall, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: campground bouldering
campground bouldering
Rock Climbing Photo: Hedgehog cactus in bloom. Photo by Blitzo.
Hedgehog cactus in bloom. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dos Equis Wall
BETA PHOTO: Dos Equis Wall

Show All 42 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Indian Cove Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
Indian Cove is a great place to hang out and do some toprope climbing during bad weather elsewhere in the Park. Short Wall has some fun topropes or 3rd class for getting used to the rock as a noob visitor, but can also wear down the fingertips in a very short time. The rock is particularly grainy and abrasive. Have fun sparingly here.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 15, 2011
About 9 miles from the west entrance road to Indian Cove Road. Del Taco sign is still standing proud.
By Dominic DePalma
Nov 27, 2016
Found some gear left behind Saturday night. If it's your respond to this post. I would love to get it back to you