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Index Toe 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Douglas Snively & Bernard Gillett, 1996
Page Views: 623
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (105)
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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations. Upda...


This route is located on the second bolted buttress uphill on the trail at Jurassic Park, located on the left hand side of the trail. This route climbs the leftmost bolted rib/arete of the bunch of routes on this wall. The climbing is very straightforward following the ridge to the anchor. A nice warmup and good lead for beginners, being well bolted and fairly easy. This route [formerly shared] anchors with the next route uphill 'Middle Toe'. The rock is quite clean and moves are fairly fun - 2 stars. You will want a 60m rope as you may have to downclimb with a 50m. Cheers.


This route is located on the second bolted buttress uphill on the trail at Jurassic Park, located on the left hand side of the trail. It is the leftmost route on the eastern face of this rock.


9 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Index Toe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sheldon lets Caden get his first feel on rock.
Sheldon lets Caden get his first feel on rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sheldon taking a breather from the crux.
Sheldon taking a breather from the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Blake on Index Toe.
Blake on Index Toe.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on-sight leading the route.
Chris on-sight leading the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Robbie on a cold day in Feb. '07.
Robbie on a cold day in Feb. '07.
Rock Climbing Photo: From the base.
BETA PHOTO: From the base.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bit of snow on a blustery day in May.
Bit of snow on a blustery day in May.

Comments on Index Toe Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 23, 2016
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jan 30, 2002

I believe the correct spelling is TOE, not tow. Possibly the hardest "so-called" 5.8 in the entire Lump Ridge Area. I've seen a rather respectable line up of climbers hanging all over this crux. More like 10a, or REAL old fashioned 9+. FA: Douglas Snively & Bernard Gillett, 1996.
By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
May 28, 2002

Pheeew. Thought I was just plain WEAK until I read Rick's comments. Yes indeed, this one's hard for 5.8 - I hung on this baby for a while and had to lower to let my partner take a stab.

It's really not that *Hard*, but until I saw the right sequence I was S-T-U-C-K.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
May 23, 2003

This climb is indeed 5.8 you just need some route finding skills to locate the correct holds. Fun! Please do not pass this one by because of claims of a sandbag. It's not.
By mary
Jun 2, 2003

I would say that this climb is definitely 5.8 - but it is kind of tricky at the crux... not hard though... also - we ran out of rope so we had to do some creative bouldering/downclimbing/sketchy rope trickery. pretty much everything here requires a full 60 m. all of the climbs downslope from this one were much better... and the 9 next to this one looked better too although i didn't get a chance to hop on it
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 2, 2003

The first part is a respectable, fun arete but the crux is no way 5.8. From to crux bolt to the next would be hairy for a 5.8 leader. The rest of the climb seemed like 5.6 on out sections. The view at the anchors made all the cursing at the crux worth while. If you top rope, there is lots of drag. :)
By Zittydog
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 26, 2004

A little harder than 5.8, I think.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route with a lot of required smearing and faith in friction- tough on a hot day in the sun. It stays sunny most of the day, until late afternoon.
By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Jun 25, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun and long, not an easy lead for 5.8 leaders, consecutive insecure and committing sequency moves at the crux. A bit runout but easy at the top. The first bolt and the bolt below the crux have spinning hangers.
By Debbie Vischer
From: Loveland
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route for sure. Definitely need to trust your feet on this one as the hands are thin at the crux (bolt 6?). Also, a 60m rope is a must, esp if you pass the achors and extend to the anchors of the adjacent routes.
By Brendan Leonard
From: Denver, Hollarado
Jun 15, 2008

This route has its own anchors -- no longer shares anchors with Middle Toe, as once noted in the route description.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jul 1, 2008

Interesting selection of comments.
After leading this again last weekend, I think I see what's going on.
The route has a 5.8 crux move, but an irritating 5.9 stretch to clip the bolt that protects this move. This bolt (#7?) is placed too far right, and too high. Move this bolt down and left about a foot or so, and the route could be an enjoyable 5.8 lead, and the comments on this fine route would be more uniformly favorable.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just don't clip that bolt before making the move. I'm a shorter climber and had no shot of making that clip until after making the move (the last bolt isn't much further down, so the fall wouldn't be bad). It is a rather committing, balance move, but aside from that the rest of the climb is rather mellow. After making the step, I wouldn't say it was actually harder than 5.8, but mentally it might seem harder since you are making a high step onto a small foothold without very good hands.

I would say this is definitely not 5.9... it is no where near as hard as Edge of Time(5.9). I would say it is also substantially easier than Joint Venture (which also gets a 5.8 rating)
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 5, 2008

Fun! If you're checking out the bolts from the bottom and it seems run out between the second and third bolts, have no fear -- there's a bolt between that you can't see from the ground.

PS, bolt number 4 jiggles a little. We didn't have a wrench with us to snug it up, sorry.
By Zac Church
May 28, 2010

#7 bolt is loose. Someone bring a wrench next time up.
By Matt.H Haron
Apr 29, 2012

Hey, does anyone know if the flaring crack to the left of this route is an established line? I did the crack on trad lead last summer, and can't find anything about it.
By Rocky_Mtn_High
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 14, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The leader doing this route before us (while we were on Middle Toe) also struggled at the crux and took a couple falls; he thought the crux was harder than Middle Toe's crux. I tried it next and struggled at the crux with very balancy moves trying to hang on with high, thin holds, hugging the arete to stay on, thinking it was surely harder than 5.8. Then my wife (who is shorter than I), cruises up. Turns out I missed a move (hint: sidepull) I had to try it again and sure enough, it suddenly felt like 5.8 at the crux. Too often I think a pitch is harder than advertised, only to find out later that I was making it harder than it really is because I missed a hold. Not as sustained as Middle Toe, but certainly a fun route!
By Russ Keane
Oct 3, 2014

Great climb! The crux is tough. I took a bunch of whippers. Super balancy to get clipped in at the next bolt.
By Sean Peter
From: IL
Aug 23, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.8 - the crux is not hard - just a bit heady. You have the last bolt below your feet (I think) on slab and have to stay in tight to the wall in a balance sequence. So you start thinking cheesegrater if the holds you're looking for don't show up when you make the 2 to 3 move commitment. They show up. You'll be fine. Yes, they could have bolted the 6th down and to the left to take all the worry out, but it's not a 9 crux.

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