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21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area
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11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Children of Light S 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Ol' 5.10 S 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Rocket In My Pocket T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Fist T 
Stone Groove T 

Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, Mark Klemens 1970
Page Views: 1,894
Submitted By: Alexey on Nov 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Pitch 3 of Center route Photo by Gary Carpenter

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


P1 : Climb to the base of the flared chimney via not well defined corner/spliter. In upper part of this pitch there some hard, tricky 5.9 moves in vegitated crack, but you can protect them well. 70 ft. mostly small medium gear. Belay at the small convinient ledge on the left.
P2 : Start as the fist crack, and then widen to easy chimney (~5.7) for about 25 feet. The crux is short section where chimney narrows to short OW. Transition [turning the lip of small roof] from this OW to fist crack is the crux. You can protect the crux by #6 or #5 friends in ow section and #4 friends is best in the fist crack. After the roof/overhang negotiated - you still have about 50 feet of interesting varied climbing. 5.10b/ ~120 feet . Belay at the tree
P3 : From the tree you can climb 5.9 chimney ( left root) where #6 friend is too small for protection - you need bigger gear like 8-10".
Other option -you can climb third pitch of Center Route, by traversing 15 feet right from the tree to splitter crack 5.10a . This crack started as thin hands and finished 8" OW. Climb any of those variations to the top of Steppin' Out and rappel with one 70m rope ( 4 rappels)


The second pitch flare is well seen from below just after you pass Stone Grove.


Double rack from green alien to #4 friend, and singe #4, #5 #6 CamelotC4,

Photos of Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch2:  chimney  Photo by Gary Carpenter
BETA PHOTO: Pitch2: chimney Photo by Gary Carpenter
Rock Climbing Photo: Turning the roof on Pitch 2  Photo by Gary Carpent...
Turning the roof on Pitch 2 Photo by Gary Carpent...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve on p1  Photo by Gary Carpenter
BETA PHOTO: Steve on p1 Photo by Gary Carpenter

Comments on Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) Add Comment
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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Apr 18, 2011

This climb would probably get done all the time if the first pitch weren't so ugly. The second pitch is excellent and not too hard unless you have really small hands. I found the 10b fists on Henley Quits to be harder. Pitch 3 is also pretty good. A #6 Camalot is way tipped out the entire way, and doesn't even fit in some sections. Big Bro's or a larger cam would be useful here if you like having solid pro. Luckily this pitch is also one of the easiest 5.9 OW's you'll ever climb in the Valley. It's low angle, secure, and more of a squeeze chimney for most people. Good footwork (heel-toe camming and/or foot stacking) will get you up it without much effort.
By Cristiano Pereira
Jun 13, 2011

I got to the base of the climb and simply was not sure where to start or whether I was at the right location. Hopefully the posted picture of P1 will help a little bit for next time.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 20, 2012

We did the first two of IP, Left and finished on the beautiful splitter of IP, Center.

2nd pitch was killer, and Henley Quits seems like a good comparison in terms of burl. But this one has tons of perfect hands after the fist section, about 50 feet of good jamming to the tree anchor, and Henley doesn't have that.

FWIW, I found the old BD 3.5 cams to be of more use on p2 than the new BD #4.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 29, 2012

Three stars for the second pitch only. Did not do the 3rd but the 3rd pitch of the Center Route is a high quality, breathtaking pitch.

I agree with Bryan, I think the first pitch is the deal killer on this route. Seeing a star next to this route in the Reed guide, folks decide to wander past Stone Grove and check it out. The second pitch instantly catches the eye and the intimidation begins. After staring at this amazing looking pitch the eye follows the line downwards to the first pitch. The book comes out as one wonders where this route begins. At this point, most folks walk away. If you can look past the chossy nature of this first pitch, which as it turns out is not so bad, you will be rewarded with a very high quality second pitch. And as stated above, the third pitch of the Center Route is also very worthy.

I did it with 2 #3 C4s and 1 3.5 Camalot. Seems like a #4 C4 would be too big. A couple more 3s would have been nice. I also linked p1 and 2 which I do not recommend.

Not sure if I agree on the Henley Quits comparison, I found the crux move on Independent Left to be much stouter from my memory but it has been years.

Also was not excited about the ant infested, hollowed out nature of the oak tree anchor on top of p2, very questionable.

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