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1. Climb straight up past a bulge (passing a block sitting on a ledge) to a small ledge at the base of a section of orange rock. 80 feet, 5.7.
2. Go straight up to the overhang above. Traverse right to the obvious left facing corner. Cross the roof there (crux) then make a belay. 60 feet, 5.10d
Traverse out left to one of several trees and use two ropes to get down, or go to the top and down Roger's Escape Hatch.
Pretty big roof.
A few minutes before the S turn at the end of the carriage road, there will be a marked trail that heads up to the enormous Casa Emilio
block. The start of this route is about 120 feet or so to the right of this and is very indistinct. But if you find Casa Emilio
and you have the guide, the line is very clear in the photo.
Start more or less directly beneath the crux corner.
Standard 'Gunks rack.