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Indecent Exposure
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Indecent Exposure 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 1,688
Submitted By: Tane Owens on Apr 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Great exposure

Description 

This sustained route climbs left to right around an intimidating arete. Thought provoking onsight that doesn't really back off for about 90% of the route. Flows nicely once you find all the crucial holds around the arete. Getting creative with heel and toe hooks will help you find a couple OK rests.

Location 

On the large obvious arete to the right of Hymalayback and Cranium Crack.

Protection 

10 draws. It wouldn't be a bad idea to stick clip and extend the first draw.


Photos of Indecent Exposure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Falls are clean so go get after it!
Falls are clean so go get after it!
Rock Climbing Photo: Searching for holds around the arete.
Searching for holds around the arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: A sweet intimidating line
A sweet intimidating line
Rock Climbing Photo: When in doubt, go higher.
When in doubt, go higher.

Comments on Indecent Exposure Add Comment
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By Kirsten KDog
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is an incredible climb! I'm not sure if it just suited me and my partner's climbing styles, but we both agreed it is definitely in the top 3 sport climbs either of us has ever done. Long, flowy, sustained, techy and super-exposed feeling. All the holds are just good enough. Would be a tricky onsight. WOW!!!
By Bob Rotert
Jul 13, 2015

Probably the coolest climb I did on my first visit to Spearfish. This route ROCKS!! Amazing postion, movement, and Rock. Tricky to onsight due to the hidden nature of the holds.
By Travis Bieber
From: Spearfish, SD
Apr 26, 2017

Agreed, great climbing, tricky onsight. Best to stick clip the first bolt.
By D. Scott Clark
From: Boulder
Jul 4, 2017

Great route! Trust the lie-backs! Definitely want to stick clip the first bolt (not the cold shut!) and use an extended alpine draw to reduce drag.
By Franck Vee
Jul 29, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Not sure what counts as the 1st draw - if it is the one that is really low & easy to clip, you can actually unclip it once you clip the 2nd one (probably easier to do with an alpine draw still).

For the moves themselves, I would give it 3 stars - it's really good, but I have seen better climbs around those grades in Spearfish. The position is insane however and you do get a great feeling climbing - also somewhat nervous & exposed even though it's well bolted and nice falls if it comes to that.

Rather even & sustained, a few harder moves here & there just to check you're still paying attention.

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