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Coyne Crack T 
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 
Flake Variation T 
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Indecent Exposure Variation T 
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Monkey Lip T 
Nob Job T 
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S-Crack T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Indecent Exposure Variation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,769
Submitted By: John J. Glime on May 8, 2004

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Indecent Exposure

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This is the very highly recommended variation on Standard Thumb.

Pitch one:Start up the gully for about 20 feet and then move onto the right wall up steep cracks (fun moves) to the tree filled gully. Continue up through the trees and belay where the trees end.

Pitch two:Climb the great hand/arm crack continuing up and to the right until you come to a roof. Undercling to the right and up onto lunch ledge and an obvious belay.

You now have a few choices... up the awesome S-direct, up the classic trough pitch, or rappel.


Standard trad rack, long runners to girth hitch trees.

Photos of Indecent Exposure Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Indecent Exposure
Indecent Exposure
Rock Climbing Photo: Indecent Exposure, showing one of the good section...
Indecent Exposure, showing one of the good section...

Comments on Indecent Exposure Variation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2017
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 22, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

2 great sections of climbing. The lower twin cracks, that I thought were the best, and the upper crack. Unfortunately they are divided by a lengthy forest!!!
By Tea
Feb 26, 2006

The "Jungle Gym" in the middle of the pitch does detract a bit...but definatly still the variation of choice to get to lunch ledge.
By Mark Gillis
Jul 1, 2006

Really fun unless you have a haul bag. Maybe it is because i don't know how to properly haul, but it took me and my buddy at least an hour to haul our bags up the first pitch of this variation. Other then that i would much prefer this variation over the dirty gully of the standard thumb. Oh yeah about half way up the "jungle" there is another variation, like a 5.5 traverse, that takes you to the killer 5.8 trough above the crux of s-crack.
By Joe Auer
From: Moab, Utah
Jul 27, 2006

haul bag?
By Mark Gillis
Jul 29, 2006

yeah dawg, we were sleeping on lunch ledge so we tried a haul bag. Probably a bad idea.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Jan 21, 2009

2nd trad lead for me. Good solid moves for the beginning leader.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 14, 2009

Our favorite way to get to lunch ledge was always to cut right at the appropriate spot and belay at the start of the S-cracks 5.8 groove pitch. Its a great crack pitch that although a bit wide does not require any big gear. Up to a 3 or 3.5 camalot should be sufficient.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 5, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You can avoid doing battle with the trees by staying on the left face. When the double cracks fade out shoot straight up in a system of discontinuous shallow cracks. A bit runout, probably 5.8ish, and a bit dirty. Seems like this line puts you between Indecent Exposure and Higher Expectations. Did it again yesterday and touched exactly 1 tree at the belay. Definitely the way to go.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

With a 70 you can run both mentioned pitches together in 1 to the chain anchors above S-Crack's final 5.8 groove pitch.

As Boissal said, you can avoid the tree jugs by staying to the left of the gully - the cracks may be sporadically filled with veg, but it climbs fairly straightforward.
By Billy Smallen
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 23, 2015

Just so everyone is aware a large block fell off the first pitch (double cracks above the gully before the trees) while we were climbing in February 2015 causing serious injuries. Be aware that there may be pieces yet to fall and the belay is super exposed. The bolts at the standard anchor were also smashed.

I would strongly recommend climbing past the first anchor (smashed bolts) you arrive at on when getting to this pitch (after pulling out of the wide crack on the Standard Route and into the tight gully). Keep going to a new pair of bolts with rings 30 ft up on your left that are for another climb. This will keep the belayer out of the line of fire should something else come down.
By jawshoeuh
From: Sandy, UTAH
Sep 8, 2017

Taking into account the history of Squeeze My Lemon at the Lizard Head Wall and wondering, would it be acceptable to clear out the trees on this section? not that I am planning to do so, I am really just wondering...I know the trees aren't that bad all in all, totally navigable, and they look beautiful in Autumn. Must say, I really enjoyed this route. I would love to help it become more fluid.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 8, 2017

No leave the trees alone! If you read the comments above, its specified how they can be avoided.

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