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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Blake Workman
Season: Another great early morning summer route if you want shade.
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: BBQ on Jul 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Oh baby! I'm gonna get medieval on your big ass!


An Incubus, is a fabeled creature from the middle ages. They were male demons, which would apparently show up in the middle of the night, in order to get busy with women who claimed to be sound asleep. I guess this not only makes them the original booty call from hell, but if you've ever seen pictures of women from the middle ages, my gut instinct tell me that these horny dudes were also chubby chasers.

Seriously though, if there is a 5.12a in Spearfish Canyon that does not deserve four or five stars, this would be it. However, I am here to be a cheerleader, not a critic.

The only reason I'm not too down with this route is due to the fact that it handed me my ass and the falls I took caused me to slam painfully into the rock. This climb is not only physically demanding, it is also very beta intensive, and believe me, the first go more than likely won't be a fun time.

However, the eternal optimist in me wants everyone to know that it's a great route to project (if you like punishment), I'm sure it will make you strong and I'm quite certain things might go better for you if you head to the blonde rock to the left of the bolts instead of trying to follow the bolt line like I did.

However, with that said, please be advised that this is truely a 5.12a for 5.12+ climbers and the rides on this thing can get pretty fat and ugly...just like chicks the Incubus apparantly goes for. But then again, that's just a mean thing to say.


This little devil is located on the left hand most side of the Wall of Fabeled Creatures and just to the right of Badgering the Witness.


8 bolts and closed shunt anchors. Stick clipping the first and second bolts is highly recommended. Belayers should be aware of the boulder behind them.

Photos of Incubus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Incubus with a rope hanging on it. To the right of...
Incubus with a rope hanging on it. To the right of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Incubus 5.12a
Incubus 5.12a

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