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Wall Right of Rusty Ring Wall
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Frog Flicker TR 
Gamma Bomb S 
Incredible Hulk S 
Phoenix, The S 
Slab Me Silly S 

Incredible Hulk 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,075
Submitted By: ChrisFrayer on Jun 7, 2012

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Short stout and green. This is the middle route on the wall. The dihedral and boulder to the right are off. Use just the right feet and a very long reach to setup for the subtle sloper match before the second bolt. Get a quick shake and release your inner hulk to surpass the boulder problem guarding the anchors.

Unfortunately there is a drilled three finger pocket to the right of the third bolt. It can be avoided with a very long reach. It does not offer much purchase for those of us with fat fingers.


3 bolts to chains

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By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Jun 7, 2012

Not sure about the grade - may only be 12+. Very height dependent with a crux sloper match. May feel better on a crisp fall day or with better beta. Tougher than SAM and felt substantially harder than barely there.

Made a solo trip out last week and spent about two hours brushing. It is currently chalked and clean. Hop on it!
By Tradiban
Jun 8, 2012

I wonder who bolted this? The sharp arete to the right is next?
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Jun 8, 2012

I'm more curious about who (and why) drilled the three finger pocket. The route goes without it and the harder moves are still below the second. The sharp arete looks fun!
By Tradiban
Jun 9, 2012

I couldn't finish the route way back when. Needed a bunch of scrubbing. I left an old Petzl Spirit on it hopefully it has a new safe home?
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Jun 9, 2012

Yep, at the anchors with one of my biners for easy cleaning.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 9, 2012

Hey Chris, a handful of the original lines here were put up by a small group of ethically confused folks back when sport climbing was a very new thing in Wisconsin. I've forgotten the names, but Dave G told me the whole story a long time back. Are you going to fill it?
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 10, 2012

Hey Chris, I have heard all sorts of debates about filling in drilled pockets over the years. I've heard of pockets being drilled, filled, and redrilled twice over.... Personally, I have only altered one established route in my career, though I didn't know it had been done at the time. I tend not to mess with other peoples lines, whether I agree with them or not. I think ultimately it depends on what the community wants to do, if they care at all. Maybe these comments will be enough to fish out a few more. When I think of Wisconsin climbing though, drilled pockets is the last thing that comes to mind, and I hope that doesn't change.

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