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Incredible Handcrack of the Monument 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,865
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Jun 9, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The splitter goods.

Description 

This route is of better quality than the Super Crack of the Monument. It has better stone and is longer. Rather than a hand crack, it sports every size from tight hands to cups, 100'. This is well worth the hike across the gully from Tiara Rado. It gets wider at the top!

Per Paul S: P2 starts out with a few bulges with that horrid size: too tight for a fist but too wide for a secure hand jam on good rock. After that the difficulty eases, but the rock takes a turn for the worse. There's some big, potentially dangerous chunks of rock that you need to climb around. The top out moves are heads up too. Super soft rock with bad fall potential. I delicately yarded on micro cams to get past that section. A single 70 m rope gets you back to the ground in 2 raps.

Location 

This route is in between Jolly Tower and Oompah Tower. It is roughly 200 feet right of Jolly Kicks.

Protection 

Doubles to triples of #1-#3 with single set from fingers up. There are double anchors at the top.


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By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Jun 9, 2014

There's a second pitch to this climb that goes to the top of the tower. P2 starts out with a few bulges with that horrid size: too tight for a fist but too wide for a secure hand jam on good rock. After that the difficulty eases, but the rock takes a turn for the worse. There's some big, potentially dangerous chunks of rock that you need to climb around. The top out moves are heads up too. Super soft rock with bad fall potential. I delicately yarded on micro cams to get past that section. A single 70 m rope gets you back to the ground in 2 raps.
By Mickey Guziak
From: Grand Junction
Aug 4, 2015

Paul, your comment makes me really want to do the second pitch. Sounds awesome!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Pretty good climbing, but fairly 'blah' rock. Even my 120lb partner sent down a lot of sand and pebbles from crack edges. The rock in this area is desert rat quality, overall.
Take several of each 2-3.5" cams and a few #4s if you want consistently good gear.

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