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Inconceivable 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Two Teeth
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Photo by Jason Willis

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start up a really fun balancy sequence on very atypical-LD holds. Move into a juggy sequence to an often-moist horizontal. From here you can easily step right to join Plausible. Otherwise, make a long and accurate throw to the next horizontal - this is very difficult to do statically, and has foiled many an onsight attempt. Pull past this and into the rest of the next-door route, making one last cruxy move before the anchor.

Location 

Middle of Bulletin Board

Protection 

316 steel (2005)


Photos of Inconceivable Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: topo - Paul firing the crux
BETA PHOTO: topo - Paul firing the crux

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By BrianWS
Nov 1, 2013

To climb this at 5.11, you need to eliminate use of obvious holds -- that is, avoid skirting out 3 feet left or right of the crux. If you climb the natural line, which follows the bolts safely, it's far easier and still very fun.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Nov 3, 2013

There is one short-dynamic or long-static move at the 6th bolt. This route is squeezed within a foot of Sky Ladder to the left and Plausible to the right. However, this is a completely independent and unique route. If you step left or right at the crux, you are avoiding the best move. It's a very beta-intensive move, making the route a proud on-sight for any climber. The route joins Plausible above the crux.

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