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Cliffs of Insanity
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L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hor D'oeuvres T 
I've Seen Worse T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Pit of Despair T 
Prepare To Die T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Shrieking Eels T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Skip to the End T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Use Your Head T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Inconceivable 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: north facing
Page Views: 1,102
Submitted By: charley graham on Jan 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Inconceivable

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A right facing enduro corner with a roof at the end which is just sandy enough to make you over-grip and pump out. There is a good reason to go for it at the roof...

Location 

Between MC's Hammer and Nurse Ratchet at the Cliffs of Insanity.

Protection 

A lot of red camalots, a few green camalots, and a couple smaller pieces.


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By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2011

I have no clue how this route isn't considered a classic. There is a little bit of poor rock at the very beginning then it's tight #1 camalot / baggy .75 camalot the whole way up to the roof. #1 at the roof and a .75 past it get you to the chains. Awesome climbing. Very similar to Quarter of a Man, both in size and that there is relief on edges outside the crack. Get on it! Sick line.
By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

It's a fun route with a crisp crack and a great finish, but in comparison to many other routes at this cliff, its sandy nature precludes it from classic status. A slightly harder version of Layaway Plan, black Metolious cams would be the gear of choice here, I think, though the tight red Camolots were OK, with a wide .75 placement here and there.

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