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Kachina Woman
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Frito Bandito T 
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Original Bandito T 

Incognito Bandito 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Derek Field, Emma Lodes (Oct 2016)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 357
Submitted By: Derek Field on Feb 11, 2017

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Just past the crux roof. Drone shot by Joey Taylor...

Description 

Incognito Bandito climbs the main crack system on the north face of Kachina Woman before making an exposed traverse around her slender neck. With wild positioning and an interesting crux, it's fun to check out if you've already done the other two routes.

Pitch 1: Climb 4th-class ledges to the base of the main crack system. Find a critical slot for a #0 or #00 TCU before busting your first real move 25 feet off the deck. Cruise up the featured crack with many #1 camalot placements. Stem a fingercrack dihedral that goes through two small roofs (crux; protects with TCUs). Exit right on mud-jugs and mantel up to a two-bolt belay anchor below the roof cap.

Pitch 2: Turn left from the belay station and traverse 25 feet (5.7; 1 bolt) clockwise around to the east shoulder of the spire. Very exciting! Top out via the original crack (5.7) or spice things up by bouldering the steep juggy face to the right (5.8; protects with TCUs in horizontals).

Location 

North face of Kachina Woman.

Protection 

Gear to 2"
extra TCUs and #1 camalots


Photos of Incognito Bandito Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Incognito Bandito topo
Incognito Bandito topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle cruising up to the crux roof during a deli...
Giselle cruising up to the crux roof during a deli...

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By Dave Spies
From: Sedona, AZ
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Rack Suggestion: Single .1-.75 bd cams and 2 #1 cams plus a few small/med nuts. A 60m rope will get you down.

Safety warning: Falling at the first piece could be catastrophic. If the 000 tcu or .1bd blows out you will fall 25' and then tumble down ledges for another 50+ feet taking your belayer with you. This may warrant an R/X rating for the route. The move is not that hard, just don't fall. A bolt here would be nice for climbers; however, this is a popular tourist "vortex" site and is not a good idea to draw attention to our sport here.

Great route at sunset or in the dark for the incognito climbers out there.

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