REI Community
Smokeys Cave
Select Route:
Billy Goat 
Incandescence 
Kobe's Achilles 
newtons groove 
Tempest, The 

Incandescence 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Tyler Starbard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 816
Submitted By: r. tyler gross on Apr 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tyler Starbard on the FA of Incandescence.

Description 

Start on jugs low and left from The Tempest. Comes out to good holds and make an awesome move up and right into a left open handed sloper knob. Match and finish straight up!

Protection 

pads


Comments on Incandescence Add Comment
Show which comments
By Antonio Labaro
Apr 29, 2013
rating: V4+ 6B+

The big left hand move to the flake is amazing. I'm 5'8", so instead of that heel hook shown in the video, I pushed my left toe as far/hard into the incut crimp as I could and threw up for the knob very dynamically. The left toe is key.

I also noticed that the good left crimp starts to flex as you put weight towards the right side of the hold, but it seems pretty solid as long as you stay towards the left.
By r. tyler gross
Apr 29, 2013

Nice work!
I'm also around 5'8" and had to toe down for the throw. Definitely a rad move!

We'll see what happens to a few of these holds with more traffic. The nature of this sandstone seems to forever be in a state of flux.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 22, 2013

I went here for the first time, and while the cave looks awesome, this particular line seemed to be VERY much in flux. All the lower crimps were super sandy and on the verge of breaking. I didn't even try it for fear of falling on my back. I'm sure it will be more established someday...
By Antonio Labaro
Apr 14, 2014
rating: V4+ 6B+

I went back to this cave today and found the left-hand flake cleanly broken off and laying on the ground. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it left behind anything usable.
By r. tyler gross
Apr 17, 2014

Ah unfortunately we kind of knew this was inevitable. I even remember telling folks to "try and do it before it breaks"
The tempest seemed to be "the line" of the cave - hopefully it stands the test of time! As of about a month ago, I went up there and it seemed to still be in good condition- I swear that rail you match on near the lip keeps getting a little bigger each time I go there

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About