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9. The Dream Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete, The T 
Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 
In Time T 
Psychotic Realization T,S 
Ten Years Later T 
Unsorted Routes:

In Time 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Sykes..established by Ed Pinskey & Isaiah Newton
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: edward pinskey on May 28, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Shows the start. Drilling the first bolt

Description 

A fun moderate addition to this crag. start up a broken crack and flake system, to the first bolt. Move past the bolt (crux) to a good stance. climb over a slight bulge to the slab above, protect as desired and move to the next bolt. Pull onto the cool dyke and climb it to the next bolt. Clip the bolt and climb to the anchor. The bottom part of the route was used as the first pitch of a aid route put up by John Sykes, that eventually goes through the roof on the left. All bolts where put in free on lead.

Location 

This is the furthest right route on the Dream Wall. the start is 30 feet to the right of the first pitch of Buck Tooth Chicken Splitter. Look for the broken crack and flake system with a rounded groove above. rappelling with a 60m rope just barely gets you down.

Protection 

Four bolts and gear to BD.75 mostly the small stuff. Double bolt rappel anchor.


Photos of In Time Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Awesome view from the anchors
The Awesome view from the anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down the route
looking down the route

Comments on In Time Add Comment
Show which comments
By edward pinskey
From: bethlehem NH
Jun 2, 2016

The bottom is a bit dirty but it's cleaning up nicely. The slab above is much cleaner.
By june m
From: elmore ,vt
Oct 9, 2016

I didnt notice any protection between the bottom two bolts, you dont want to fall there.(might be a reach issue, or a lichen issue)

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