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In the Silly 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: 1972 Art Reidel and Greg Lee
Page Views: 942
Submitted By: dragons on Jun 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The diagonaling ramp at left is the start of "...

Description 

Climb a thin ramp, which diagonals up and right to a large pebbly block and forms a roof overhanging the corner (the corner is where the climb In the Groove starts). Continue up over this block a few feet, then move to the right a few feet around a short corner. You'll see a chimney. Climb to the top of the chimney, passing a small tree about halfway up. At the top, exit right onto a small prow. Stand up, and climb approximately straight up to the rap station, moving left or right to wherever the holds and pro look good.

When I climbed it, the large rap station oak tree appeared to be hollow and dead. It was covered in old tat and had rap rings. It may be wise to find a different rap tree, or head south to the Ursula rappel.

Location 

About 50 ft to the right of Ursula. Look for a free-standing triangular pinnacle about 10 feet tall, close to the cliff face. Just right of that you'll see a thin ramp diagonaling to the right, up the cliff.

Protection 

There are good opportunities for pro almost everywhere. It gets a little more difficult to find good spots once you exit the chimney, but the climbing is fairly easy here. Standard Gunks rack.


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By 1738
Aug 24, 2015

the rap tree on the top of this climb is still dead and very hollow. I continued up fifteen feet to another tree on top of the cliff.

would not recommend a belay or rappel from the dead tree, seems like it may let go any day.
By Gunkiemike
Sep 18, 2016

There's only one tree up there now - and it's alive - so Imagine the infamous "dying tree" is gone. Also, the pitch is now a good 125' long rather than the 100' given in the guidebook (and here). A 60m rope still suffices for the rap.

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