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In the Presence of God 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  TR
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Sam Slater
Page Views: 724
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Sep 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route ascends the face to the right of Dol Guldur. Hard, technical and sustained 5.12 crimping leads to a ~V7/8 crux about halfway up the route. Climbing gets a bit easier getting to the “roof” and the top. TR is a pain to set up, but well worth it. To the best of my knowledge, it has been sent by only 3 individuals: Sam Slater (FA), J.D.Mackey, and Ken Nichols (questionable – but I have seen him get damn close at age 63). Someday this will be a GREAT lead. -Topo Gigio

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By Echoinfi
Jun 1, 2013

Looks absolutely amazing this climb.
By Topo Gigio
Oct 13, 2016

Hard, technical and sustained 5.12 crimping leads to a ~V7/8 crux about halfway up the route. Climbing gets a bit easier getting to the “roof” and the top. TR is a pain to set up, but well worth it. To the best of my knowledge, it has been sent by only 3 individuals: Sam Slater (FA), J.D.Mackey, and Ken Nichols (questionable – but I have seen him get damn close at age 63). Someday this will be a GREAT lead.
By tetrault
From: CT
Apr 9, 2017

If you don't mind me asking, what makes this climb a pain to set up on TR?
By Topo Gigio
Apr 24, 2017

I guess I can clarify by saying that the actual TR setup is not a pain, but rather, setting up the directional in the crack in the face in order to make the climb easier to work, is a pain. Hope that clears it up a bit for you. Extra beta- May also make sense to TR it on a static, if you’ve got one, so that the fall at the crux doesn’t sink you back down near the start of the climb.

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