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Zoe
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11b Staples finish S 
In the Firing Line T 
Jeff and the Giant Reach S 
Oscar's Slab S 
Restless S,TR 
Staples of the Gluten Intolerant S 
Zoe S 

In the Firing Line 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Small, Kevin Henshaw, 2012
Page Views: 432
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Aug 2, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

A nice route with thoughtful moves over steep but small roofs. Amazing this wasn't claimed before 2012.

Climb the dihedral to the right of Zoe all the way up. It's quite easy for 25 feet until you hit the first roof. There's no bolts before this point, so you need a small rack (up to 1" pieces) to get here.

Clip the first bolt and surmount the first roof with good stemming for your feet. Cruise to the next roof, clip bolt, and crank over it (crux). Relatively easier climbing from there to the top chains.

Protection 

small rack to 1". 3 bolts. rappel chains.


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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I was glad to have a rack to #2 camalot, and a second #1 would have been even nicer. Not sure why the book neglects to mention this- its obvious from the base.
By ihategrigris
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 22, 2013

The Squamish select book calls in a 5.10a, but who knows? It feels a little harder than Zoe.

There's at least one place to put a #3 camalot, and depending on how much gear you want to place, it's a smart move to double up on everything from blue to red in the Metolius mastercams.

Fun route! My first 10a (or b?) trad onsite.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 15, 2017

Really fun route and a nice mix of trad and sport.

I was very happy to have a #1 camalot available after the second bolt. There are still some hard moves up there and you are well above the bolt at that point in time. A #1 camalot goes in perfectly in a horizontal.

I suggest a single rack from tight fingers to #3 camalot. Just save a #1 for up top :)

Be aware the anchors are RIGHT of the last bolt. I blindly pulled over the top right above the last bolt and had to perform some shenanigans to get back over to the anchor.

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