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In the Eyrie of the Beholder T 
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In the Eyrie of the Beholder 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Zac Warren and Roy Suggett
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: BSU_Zac on Aug 28, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Eyrie of Beholder.

Description 

Start in the obvious chimney where the Carion Pillar meets the main wall. After approximately 12 feet, a crack (visible from start) provides the first piece of protection. Two ledges interrupt the continuous chimney and provide the cruxes of the route with the one requiring a less than sexy belly flop. Unlike most chimneys, this route allows gear every 10-12 feet. For some this may feel PG rated as there is ground fall potential at the start and after one of the ledges however all the cruxes are decently protected. Chains are located at the final roof at the end of the chimney and allows for easy topropping. This is a good summer respite for desert chimney addicts when the red desert is too hot or a good practice route for the burgeoning chimney leader.

Location 

Start in the obvious chimney where the Carion Pillar meets the main wall.

Protection 

See image below. You could get by with doubles from BD 0.4 - 2, single of BD 3, and medium stoppers.


Photos of In the Eyrie of the Beholder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rack for FA, plus a few helpful pieces.
BETA PHOTO: Rack for FA, plus a few helpful pieces.
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy S. following route on FA. Photo taken from anc...
Roy S. following route on FA. Photo taken from anc...

Comments on In the Eyrie of the Beholder Add Comment
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By Roy Suggett
Aug 28, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Some real old school fun can be had in this gaping maw by both the young and the young of heart.

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