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In The Crack Or On Your Back 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kerry Allen 2002
Page Views: 948
Submitted By: C. Archibald on Mar 30, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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This section above the mini-roof was the hardest f...

Description 

I can't believe this route isn't on Mountain Project! This is a major classic!

The route begins in an easy dihedral with lots of stemming options. After about 20 feet the walls smooth out to form a perfectly blank corner split by a 4-5 inch crack. No faking it. Off width technique is mandatory. Near the top, the crack widens up and you can wiggle inside a pod and cop a rest before continuing to the chains.

Location 

A few minutes walk to the right (north) of Hackberry Crack. Walk the trail past the black slabs and past the obvious chimney of GV. Look for the striking wide crack in prefect gray rock.

Protection 

I placed one #2, one #4 and two #5 Camelots, and a #4 Helium Friend. You could probably find a #3 Camelot down low. You can place a #6 as well, though I'm not sure it's worth hauling up. This route is equipped with a bolted anchor.


Photos of In The Crack Or On Your Back Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is my onsight ATTEMPT. The business begins he...
This is my onsight ATTEMPT. The business begins he...

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By Bart Kensinger
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 31, 2015

I think this is the very best crack at Horseshoe Canyon, and as far as Arkansas wide cracks go it's rivaled only by Diet Pepsi at Sam's Throne in beauty and technique. It also stays dry when the rest are wet.

My gear beta: There are places low and high where you can substitute fours or twos, and I was really happy to bring a #6 last time for the top off the wide stuff. If you aren't comfortable with the grade I would bring: 1 #2, 3 #4, 2#5, and 1 #6. You wouldn't need anything else.

I know, I know, there's rules for clean climbing. BUT if no one is looking I would tape my ankles, my hands (for stacks), and wear a kneepad and elbow pad (cheap walmart support stuff works great) on my right side. That way you won't make it slippery with your precious bodily fluids. Your follower will think you're the cat's pajamas :)
By C. Archibald
Mar 31, 2015

+1 vote for taping ankles. Mine are destroyed!
By Backwards Eric
Feb 16, 2016

One of the guidebooks (that calls this route 76) says that routes 74-76 (can't recall the numbers exactly) are in a "hidden" area that you need to pass through a constriction to get to. That is incorrect. That only applies to the first two routes. This one is visible from the trail.
By C. Archibald
Apr 25, 2016

Finally sent this thing, but I changed my vote to 10+. This route is hard! My knees don't fit above the mini-roof making it pretty desperate to reset the stacks.