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> Mother's Buttress
> Upper Mother's Buttress
In Search of Don Juan
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Upper Mother's Buttress
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3-D T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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[Redacted] T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crab Head Poseidon God S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Doppelgänger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Flight Without Wings T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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In Search of Don Juan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Questions and Answers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rat Trap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sophie's Revenge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Squeeze to Please T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sugi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Dike T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Throbbing Gristle T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown 5.9+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Weeping Prophet, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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White Cross aka Titus Groan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 767 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Preston on Jun 20, 2017 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
When hiking to Upper Mothers from the road, this is the first alcove you see when the trail meets the wall. I was lost thinking I was on the Sunday Wall and following the instructions for locating Don Juan. The route climbs a dirty, offwidth corner using the crack and face holds to the right. Make a wild stemming move up higher, and mantel the ledge. Continue climbing your choice of two cracks off this ledge that lead to another ledge and a dihedral with a walk-off/scramble to the right. This is also known as "5.6 My Ass."
Location
It's the first dihedral you see when the trail meets the wall. This is down and around the corner right of Crab Head Poseidon God. It's the obvious, big, dihedral OW crack.
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