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In Over My Head
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.8 from 4
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Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
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Alpine Dance Lessons T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arch Enemy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Arcing Arrow, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Crack-n-up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dreams of Wild Corgis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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FJL aka "Standard Route" T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Harem Route, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Have a Line S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heather's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In Over My Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sweeney's Edge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Underware Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 350 ft (106 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tucker, Kale: FFA Fremont |
| Page Views: | 1,173 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Boundary County Climbers on Jul 21, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
The beautiful looking inside corner with a roof jog left 150 from the slab start. Pitch 1. Clip bolts up the 5.10 slab and grin at the perfect hand/fist crack dihedral. The left jogging roof throws an awkward 5.10 move in before continuing up to a bolt/chain anchor ledge. Often climbers feel like their heads are trapped under the roof!
Pitch 2. The second 180 foot pitch is mostly bolted (13 draws). This pitch has some hollow and potentially loose ledges/flakes. There is a few optional gear placements to supplement the initial moderate climbing, but as the pitch gets harder (5.10 slab) the bolts get closer! The final exit moves over the overlap are more awkward and balancy than hard and strenuous. This pitch traverses significantly right, making it challenging to toprope. It is best to rappel after this pitch straight down 180 feet to the Arch Enemy anchor.
Pitch 2. The second 180 foot pitch is mostly bolted (13 draws). This pitch has some hollow and potentially loose ledges/flakes. There is a few optional gear placements to supplement the initial moderate climbing, but as the pitch gets harder (5.10 slab) the bolts get closer! The final exit moves over the overlap are more awkward and balancy than hard and strenuous. This pitch traverses significantly right, making it challenging to toprope. It is best to rappel after this pitch straight down 180 feet to the Arch Enemy anchor.
Location
Start left of the obvious dihedral left of arch enemy. Follow bolted slab up and right to the striking inside corner capped by an overhanging jog left. 2 60m ropes to rappel. The second 180 foot pitch climbs up then traverses right on 5.10 slab past thirteen bolts. It is best to rappel straight down to the Arch Enemy anchor 180 ft.
Protection
nuts, double set of cams to 2 inches (a 3 inch cam can be placed just before the awkward roof, but the roof itself protects great with a finger sized cam). Thirteen or more slings/draws (A couple long slings are handy to keep rope hassles to a minimum at the roof). 2 60m ropes ease potential rope drag, and are needed for rappelling. As of 2016 it is possible to rappel from the second pitch anchor with a single 60m rope down Dreams of Wild Corgis.
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