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In On The Killtaker 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 4,391
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Nov 15, 2002

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jason mcnabb just working the sichter movement


Intimidating route that climbs the steepest section of rock on the left side of the Thunderhead. This route is a sustained power-endurance climb with wild sequences. The opening sequence is very difficult and gets you in the mood for the crux mono section and heart-breaking redpoint crux up high. This is one of the canyon's hardest routes and has been described as hard for the grade.


9 bolts, open cold shuts anchor

Photos of In On The Killtaker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Terveen and his mohawk holding the swing
Terveen and his mohawk holding the swing
Rock Climbing Photo: lee holdin the toss a fix up photo I overexposed
lee holdin the toss a fix up photo I overexposed
Rock Climbing Photo: Just puttin it together
Just puttin it together
Rock Climbing Photo: Mohawk or mohuck?
Mohawk or mohuck?
Rock Climbing Photo: Stampman skipping the mono
Stampman skipping the mono
Rock Climbing Photo: Mcnabb trying too
Mcnabb trying too

Comments on In On The Killtaker Add Comment
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By blake workman
Dec 19, 2002

Arguably the best route at the wall. Very hard, but some of the best dynamic climbing you will ever do. This route is the epitome of climbing at the thunderhead. When you're ready, strap this brute on and crank it out. I have seen everyone who has redpointed the route and their attempts, and let me tell you this one will take it to your limits. Superior!
By Miah
Dec 31, 2006
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Arguably the best route in the Canyon! Unbelievable movement on stellar stone w/ just enough holds to keep it flowing. Bring your sprinting shoes and watch out for the tree on the final headwall. Has this thing seen any ascents other than the first three? With all the strong boys I'd like to think it's a regular send these days.
By Greg Parker
From: Cardiff, CA
Jan 1, 2007

I don't think anyone has sent it besides me, Dale and you. Again, McNabb was close before the season ran out. I think Scott Hahn was close, but I don't think he did it. You guys can correct me if I'm wrong.
By Miah
Jan 2, 2007
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Did Andy Raether get on it? Did he get on anything at the Thunderhead?
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Jan 2, 2007

I tried this route when I was out there last summer and that mono crux scared me. I thought I would lose my finger if I fell. Maybe I was doin' it the wrong way? I might give it another try this spring/summer.
By Greg Parker
From: Cardiff, CA
Jan 2, 2007

From what Jason told me, the only other route that Andy got on besides Hopeful was Alice.... and he didn't do it. In fact, Jason said he got pretty frustrated here and vowed never to come back. The guy climbs 14+ in Rifle and southern Utah!
By Miah
Jan 3, 2007
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

As for the mono, don't yard on it. Set your feet and jump, only use the mono to keep yourself in. The entire steep section is pretty much just grab and go. There's a big drop knee just before the final roof but otherwise save your feet for the finish.

Raether didn't even do Alice! Wow. Well, he's always got Rifle.
By Jason McNabb
Jan 3, 2007

From what I understand (Hahn told me about it) it was a number of years ago (5 or more) that Raether visited and got on the routes. I've never really talked to him too much about it. He didn't seem psyched for one reason or another when we did talk about the canyon though. Not sure why, the canyon is hard to beat. I imagine he would take care of business now though. Wendling looked good on all the routes he got on. Fun to climb with him. Miah, when are you coming back next? It would be great to see you up here.
By Miah
Jan 3, 2007
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Raether was there five years ago? I'm sure he'd crush now. Matt is the "14a climber from Wtoming"? He's definitely a good guy and strong as hell. I'm not sure when I'll be back, I'm thinking about making a trip out in the spring. The only problem is the weather can be total crap then. If not the spring the fall would be good. I'd like to come throw myself at Hopeful Monsters again. I'm planning on hitting up Charleston to get back in pocket pulling mode and then we'll see what happens. Are you working Hopeful or In on the Killtaker? What's up with you these days? I hear your the new hard man in town. Your going to have to step up and crush a few of the old projects before word gets out and somebody else comes creeping in. It's good to see your name up there give me a ring sometime.
By Greg Parker
From: Cardiff, CA
Jul 7, 2012

I just realized you can link to youtube videos. What a good Saturday morning activity...

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