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Shanahan Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beau! T 
Better Offer T 
East Face - North Rib of the Eastern Crag T 
East Face - Northern Shanahan Slab T 
East Face of the Eastern Crag (South) T 
Great Expectations T 
Identity Theft T 
In Broad Daylight T 
Leonine T 
Prune Face T 
South Face T 
Southeast Ridge T 
Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 
Thieves In the Temple T 
Vague Jug Line T 
When It's Right T 
Unsorted Routes:

In Broad Daylight 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: T. Bubb, S. VanWychen, 4/17
New Route: Yes
Season: it gets AM shade and would be hard to access in Winter
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Tony B on May 9, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: 'Broad Daylight' (5.6) follows the discontinuous c...

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  • Description 

    This route is an easy one that may have been done before, but was not cleaned or documented. Just left of 'Thieves In the Temple' on the West-facing aspect of the big dihedral, there is a system of cracks running up the face from bottom to top. Most of the climbing is quite easy but for a move at the top which is not quite as easy, but it is still only 5.6 or so.

    Start up the narrow wall on the obvious jugs and cracks, reaching a protectable crack after a bodylength or two of climbing. Follow this to where the wall broadens. 'Thieves' goes right to the aArete here, where as 'Daylight' goes left a meter to second crack system.

    Follow that crack past an inset to a few trees (easy to pass with no real drag, and sling-able, at that), and move back right a meter to a 3rd system of cracks which goes to the top.

    The last 2 meters of climbing has a thinner crux that is protectable. Finish on this and work left and over into the belay slot just as for 'Thieves.'

    Location 

    First find the huge, left-facing dihedral about 1/2 way up the crag from the Eastern toe of it. The large arete formed at its edge is 'Thieves in the Temple'. Inside the dihedral, left of the arete, and right of the corner system is 'Broad Daylight' where the line sat for 50 years without a comment and perhaps without an ascent.

    Protection 

    A standrad light rack with a set of cams and a set of nuts.


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