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Chico-Valse
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chico T,TR 
Diablotin TR 
In Between T,TR 
L'Etonnante TR 
L'Oubliée T,TR 
La Valse T,TR 
Le Nez T,TR 
Sans Nom T,TR 

In Between 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Richard Wilmott, 1960
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: TSluiter on May 25, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Start of the route. Slippery when wet but dries ...

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Description 

Face climbing from bottom to top. A couple small horizontals on the way. Very fun moves, lots of smears on the slab, feet switching, a fun right undercling 1/3 up, shallow pockets, nice crimps and smaller tenuous feet as the slab becomes more vertical near the crux. But they are all there!

Try not to use the larger crack on the left (4/5 up) to keep it hard!

Location 

In Between (ha...?) Chico (5.4) and the vertical 30 ft. crack on the right (Diabloton 5.8). Low angle face climb to high angle face, go straight up!

Protection 

Fixed anchors at the top.

Trad would be ballsy, but a little wandering to the left and right might protect it. First section is impossible to protect unless you use the shallow flared crack on the route to the right which would take you off route, still would be mighty funky. Maybe a cam jam on the first horizontal crack 20 ft up or so, second would be even tougher to place. Third short vertical crack is okay. Then not much till the top if I remember correctly. You might as well solo it if you think you can protect it.


Photos of In Between Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: You can't tell, but there is a smile under there. ...
BETA PHOTO: You can't tell, but there is a smile under there. ...

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