REI Community
Bear's Lair
Select Route:
Basilica S 
Grin and Bear It S 
In A Rut S 
Movin' On S 
Out of the Wind S 
Tourmaline Dream S 
Wafer S 

In A Rut 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: Nate Oakes on May 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


This route ascends an arete on sharp conglomerate. Make use of the dihedral to your right, or stay left of the arete for a harder ascent. The guidebook lists this route as 5.9-, but I respectfully submit that this route is at least 5.9+, as there are some committing moves with fewer options than most 5.9s I've climbed. As with most Monastery routes, there is a significant runout between the last bolt and the anchors, which are shared with the 5.11 route to the left. A short and dirty climb, I was tempted to give this route a bomb. Props to Chris Deulen for leading this route (and TR'ing the 11 next door) in the dark.


As you head left off the main path to the Monastery, look to your left. This route is the one in the middle that climbs the obvious arete.


3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, which lies above the 5.11 route to the left. You might want to bring a t-shirt or some slings to combat the rope drag on sharp rock at the top.

Comments on In A Rut Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Crescenzo
Jul 24, 2007

The runout at the top is definitely hairy. I seconded this route and after I cleaned the last draw before the anchors I had images of taking a winger across a cheese grater-like slab.

To add insult to injury amidst my struggle; the guy who led it did it in his Chacos. Effin Gunnison kids!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About